On pages eight through ten, Ibn Fadlan records his time in Jujānīya which is located near the Jayhún river and “fifty farsakhs” from Khwārazm when traveling on the river (7). Ibn Fadlan and his group stay in Jurjānīya for many days before the river began to freeze. Once this happens, they are stuck for about three months here. He relates the months as those of “Rajab” (the end of said month) “Sha’ban, Ramadān and Shawwāl,” and records that it was around “the middle of the month of Shawwāl 309/ February 922” that they were able to finally leave (8-9).
During their three months stay, Ibn Fadlan focuses largely on the weather, He is very specific about the cold weather. He says the Jayhún river was covered in “ice [that] was seventeen spans thick” and that “when snow falls, it is always accompanied by a rough and violent wind” (8).
He seems relatively indifferent about the specific people in this region. He does not say anything judgmental nor very descriptive of who they are. Although, he does mention that they were friendly. He records the prices of their firewood. He only mentions two customs. One being that when a person wants to invite a person over out of gratitude they say, “Come to my house where we can talk, for there is a good fire there” (8). Additionally, it is custom that the beggars in this area just walk right into the houses and warm up before asking for food. Ibn Fadlan also writes of a story he heard about two men forgetting their tools to make a fire, so after a night in the cold, their camels died (9).
Ibn Fadlan, in this section, does relay information about his own experience with the cold in Jujānīya, most of which are negative. He says his beard froze after he washed. He says his lodgings were “a house, inside which was another, inside which was a Turkish felt tent” and despite these precautions and the addition of many blankets, his face froze to the fabric of his pillow (9). Ibn Fadlan also details the vegetation, specifically trees, breaking in half from the cold.
When he and his companions leave, they gather enough food for three months, some camels, and boats made from the skin of camels to make their journey. Additionally, they must dawn “a tunic,” “caftan,” “a cloak of sheepskin,” “a felt outer garment, with a head covering,” “ a plain pair of trousers and another padded pair, socks, horse-hide boots and over those boots, other boots” (9-10).
This entire section entirely relates back to the freezing weather Ibn Fadlan is experiencing. Every detail, custom, and experience he mentions can be tied to the weather. While there is very little emotion in his words, it is clear he is dismayed and bewildered by the extent of the cold weather. He even expresses disbelief with the amount of clothes they needed to wear to leave this region and that it was “twice as bad as [he] had been told” (9). His indication of seeing the cold’s effect on nature showcases his growing fear: “I saw the Earth split” (9).
In class, we talked about the climes, and how the further north one travel’s the closer to hell they get (in Islamic belief at that time). Hell is bad and cold. It is also where the dangerous tribes of Gog and Magog are trapped behind a wall. In this section Ibn Fadlan says this experience was “a gate to the cold of hell” (8). He believes he is approaching more danger than just the weather with his continued journey. This predisposes his later thoughts of the Ghuzz Turks to already be negative, because it is cold, and he is closer to hell. Additionally, Ibn Fadlan is only about halfway through his journey to Bulghar. Which means, he believes his journey and the climate are only going to get worse (and they are already bad). Overall, there are slightly sarcastic/dismayed undertones to this section which is likely a message to the Caliph expressing how much worse Ibn Fadlan’s journey is going to get, and how he is very upset about it.
Ibn Fadlān. Ibn Fadlān and the Land of Darkness: Arab Travelers in the Far North. Translated by Paul Lunde, Penguin Classic, 2012.