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The Travels of Marco Polo: Kan-chu

When Marco Polo begins chapter two, he is starting to enter the Cathay region, hence the title, “The Road to Cathay.” One of the stops he describes along his route is “Kan-chu”, a large city in the Tangut province and the capital. He first notes that this province is located in the east-northeast, and that it takes ten days to travel to. At the end of the ten days, the traveler arrives at “Su-chau,” which is a province that forms part of the major province of Tangut. Polo describes this area as a very mountainous region with a healthy climate. He specifically notes that the inhabitants are brown-skinned. He also says that rhubarb grows in abundance there and is specifically bought by merchants who export it. He says the people here live off the produce and don’t deal with trade. I find it very insightful that Polo takes note of this, as trade continues to mean a lot to him as a merchant himself.

Upon reaching Kan-chu, Polo identifies it as the capital of the province and begins to describe its inhabitants. He says most of them are “idolaters,” a term used by the European Christian culture to describe or condemn individuals who worshiped gods or images rather than following Christianity or Islam. He does note that some are Mahometan or Christian. Polo describes the idolaters as having a vast quantity of idols, and that they are big and recumbent. Polo then spends a significant amount of time explaining the customs of the idolaters. Idolaters “…who live under a religious rule lead more virtuous lives than the others” (91). It’s important that he takes note of Christianity still being somewhat prevalent in Kan-chu, because it reassures his audience that there is Christianity in this part of the world and gives them something to relate to.

He cites specifically that the idolaters avoid lechery, or excessive lust. However, he adds that women may initiate relations with men without sin, while men who make the first advances are punished severely. They were punished, sometimes even with death, for their “unnatural” acts. He describes how the idolaters mark time by lunar cycles as we distinguish months. During one cycle, all idolaters don’t kill or eat animals and strive to live more virtuously, with some abstaining from consuming meat all their lives. Polo can recognize the moral difference and discipline in these acts, but his tolerance fades regarding marriage customs. He notes that men can have up to thirty wives or more, depending on wealth, and they must give wives a marriage portion in cattle, slaves, and money. The first wife holds the highest status, and if a wife displeases her husband, he can “put her away and do as he likes” (Polo). Polo is particularly disturbed by marriages between cousins or between men and their fathers’ widows, which he considers sinful. He writes, “many we regard as sins are not sins to them, they are beasts” (Polo). I find it particularly interesting that he uses language like “beasts,” because it is in his language that we can see how he feels about these natives and how weird he finds their marriage customs. Clearly, religion and the common marriage associated with it are important to Polo. His experiences and understanding of this place and his travels are filtered through his identities, like being a merchant or a Christian.

Margery Kempe: Chapter 26 (Norwich, Yarmouth, Zierikzee, towards Constance)

In this chapter, Margery Kempe begins her travels by traveling from Norwich to Yarmouth. In these places, the reader does not get much information about the landscape or inhabitants of the towns – Kempe’s focus is her religious action, describing praying and offering at the Trinity and the Image of Our Lady, respectively. Before even beginning her journey, she prepared to leave for a significant amount of time by settling her debts and keeping in mind the advice/premonition that she received from an “anchorite,” describing events that had yet to occur.

The first location that Kempe describes in detail is Zierikzee, a city in the Netherlands. It is described as a large town, and Kempe is overcome with a deep sense of religious humility. She begins to explain, in detail, how she is wrought with “tears of compassion” at the thought of Jesus’s Resurrection. More than anything, Margery Kempe describes her emotions and near-constant tears at each place she visits on her journey towards the Holy Land. Her struggles begin to affect her, though, when her travel companions begin to reproach her for her annoying state of exultation and overt emotion. They begin to speak negatively towards her, saying things like “I pray God that the devil’s death may overtake you soon and quickly.” In addition to her religious emotion, she also ate no meat and drank no alcohol, except for a short time when one of her companions convinced her to eat meat and drink wine. After denying and asking if she could return to her vegetarian way of life, her companions grew even more annoyed at her constant state of religious superiority and piety. She would constantly speak of God and her love of the Lord, and her companions grew so annoyed that they began to act rashly towards her in addition to their previous negative statements.

At one point, they cut her dress and made her wear a sack so she “looked like a fool.” They demoted her to sitting below the table so they could be less annoyed by her religious conversation. Despite all these attempts at silencing Kempe’s religious belief, she states that she was still held in higher regard than her companions in every place they went. It is this high regard and Kempe’s conversations with the Lord that ensure she is on the right path. Kempe describes that she has conversations with God multiple times throughout her journey, and at this point (on the road to Constance from Zierikzee), He assures her that her and her companions will be safe on their journey as long as they stay together.

Kempe is stingy on her descriptors of location-specific details like terrain, length of stay, and even the culture/buildings/environment. In this section, Kempe’s focus is on the struggles she has with her travel companions, and sets up how her relationship with the Catholic God protects her and keeps her company in times of hardship. As with the other places she visits, and her descriptions of those places, we learn more about Kempe’s (and women in general) struggles with traveling, and how traveling with companions is not without its struggle, especially as someone as enthusiastically, outwardly devout. It is Kempe’s religious zeal that is the root of her distress with her companions, but it is her unwavering faith that keeps her focused on her journey and purpose: to see the Holy Land.

The Travels of Marco Polo: Kinsai

Cameron DeVries

Blog Post #3

The Travels of Marco Polo: Kinsai

October 16, 2025

In the chapter entitled “From Peking to Amoy”, the city of Kinsai is one of the Great Khan’s most important cities in the South-Eastern Manzi province, and is known also as the “City of Heaven.” It is clear from the start that Marco Polo was a fan of Kinsai, as he talks about how it is the “most splendid city in the world” and “amply provided with all the means of life.” One of the first things he notices and shows interest in with this city is some of the architectural aspects, one of which seems to be a functioning system of sewers or waterways. It seems that the city is between a lake and a flowing river, and the city is filled with waterways and canals that flow from the river to the lake and pull the filth to the latter. He notes that “the whole city lies in water and surrounded by water”, so a lot of people travel throughout via boats as well as the main streets, and there are a plethora of bridges needed to traverse the city. The descriptions he gives of these architectural functions make the city sound almost like Venice, which, being an Italian merchant, could be one of the reasons he was impressed by this kind of layout across Kinsai.

He next talks about all the bustling businesses and people throughout the streets, and how there are great markets that spread across the city as well as many smaller marketplaces, businesses, and luxuries. Some that he mentions are the cold bath-houses, which the locals use to stay clean and in good health,  and “women of the town”, which I read to be a large number of prostitutes or brothels throughout the city and interestingly seem to earn the city its title of “city of Heaven” for Marco Polo. There are many other crafts as well such as doctors, astrologers, and teachers. Marco Polo once again seems very business savvy and impressed with the sheer abundance of thriving trade, even noticing the daily consumption of pepper alone, which added up to 43 cart-loads. Not to mention all of this took place in a beautiful city lined with “stately mansions with their gardens.” Not to talk too much more about the trade, but he goes on and on about the merchants and how they are “great men” that “never sold their hands with work at all, but live a life of as much refinement as if they were kings” and how their wives are “refined and angelic creatures.” This really does give a sense as to the type of people Marco Polo respects, and how he continues to be in comfort when surrounded by wealth and those that ply their trade with success. He also admires the Khan for allowing these traders to retire once they have reached said success.

This economy of trade ties directly into the people themselves in Marco Polo’s eyes, and he describes them overall as being very peaceful, honest, diligent, generous, good looking and opposed to conflict of any kind. They even seem to take very good care of the sick and poor in Kinsai. No details are specified, but given Marco Polo’s good review, one could assume that during his stay he probably took advantage of some of this luxury, and lived in comfort while he visited. While he was very impressed by a socially and architecturally sophisticated and refined city, you could also say that this point is something he was astonished by, and needed to report back on in order to convey the unexpected “wonders of the East” he was finding that even rivaled his luxuries back home.

The Travels of Sir John Mandeville: Cyprus

While John Mandeville often blurs myth and reality in his travel account, his description of Cyprus is anchored by fact, emphasizing the island’s historical relevance within the Medieval mind. 

Before detailing his account of Cyprus, Mandeville references the once-great city of Adalia, associating it with a regional myth. He explains that a young man once happened upon the tomb of a beautiful young woman, and laid down beside her before continuing his journey. In a dream, the man was told to revisit the grave or else he would experience great suffering. And yet, when the tomb was reopened, an ugly head escaped and terrorized the city, causing it to sink. Mandeville asserts that this story is the reason for dangerous waterways in the region. The inclusion of this myth serves two purposes: to explain a natural phenomenon and to provide a contrast ahead of Mandeville’s glowing account of Cyprus.

For Mandeville, Cyprus’ importance relies on its status as a Christian nation and its proximity to Jerusalem. Thus, he spends more time highlighting the ethnographic details of Cyprus than he did in previous locations. At the beginning of this chapter, Mandeville mentions Cyprus’ strong vines and noble wine, noting the wine is originally red, but that with each year it becomes whiter, and eventually runs clear. Mandeville associates the visual purification of the wine as a marker of strength. The wine serves as a metaphor for the power and longevity of Christian rule in Cyprus.

Furthermore. Mandeville’s account accentuates Cyprus’ organization. He introduces Cyprus as a large island home to four major cities, three bishops, and one archbishop. Mandeville is clearly impressed by Cyprus’ unity in faith, despite its size, before enumerating several Christian references. He tells his reader about the Mountain of the Holy Cross and the abbey of monks that resides there, in addition to the Castle of Amours, where the bodies of Saint Genovefe and Saint Hilarion lie. Mandeville contends that the Cross of Our Lord is not indeed in Cyprus, contrary to popular knowledge. This assertion reflects Mandeville’s commitment to fact in his description–an attempt to establish his credence as a writer. 

Notably, Cyprus coincides with Mandeville’s first description of hunting and eating practices. He remarks that men hunt with papions, leopard-like cats, that are well-equipped at capturing beasts. He distinguishes papions by their agility and size, in comparison to dogs and lions. Additionally, Mandeville underscores that all men in Cyprus eat their food on the ground because of the heat. And yet, in the presence of foreigners, they eat at tables. Mandeville suggests that although their dining customs are different, that they serve a function to those who practice them.

Mandeville’s account of Cyprus identifies the island as an important stop on the way to the Holy Land. Cyprus’ status as both a major trade hub and as a historically Christian-ruled region makes it significant to Mandeville’s journey. As Mandeville’s travels bring him closer to the Holy Land, he focuses on locations that support his mission as a Christian pilgrim.

The Book of Marvels and Travels by John Mandeville: Kingdom of Manzi

In the Kingdom of Manzi we find ourselves in a rather strange spot. Literarilly speaking. Sir John Mandeville, as we will continue to call him, has, so far in the adventures we’ve talked about together, confined himself almost entirely to his own Christian faith. This is due, of course, to his incorporeal nature. Meaning that he is not real. These are the writings of a monk, and now, we get to hear him talk about animals and feasts! He’s not even racist about it! I know! He even, believe it or not, has a conversation. I’m so excited.

He’s not even weird about poor people or other religions’ beliefs about the soul! We can see this in his interaction with a monk, whom I want to assume is Buddhist, given his belief in the reincarnation of the soul and how the life that you lived shapes your next life. He observes their feeding of the animals with the monastery scraps, and he listens and asks questions respectfully. This is delightful.

“The monk said that these animals are the souls of dead men, the gentle and attractive animals being the souls of aristocrats and gentlemen, and those that are ugly being the souls of commoners. I asked him if it would not be better to give these leftovers to poor men than to these animals. He replied that there are no poor men in that country, and, even if there were people who needed alms, it would be better to give it to these souls which suffer their penance there and may not go out and seek food, unlike people who have the knowledge to find food and the capacity to work.” (88)

This quote is interesting because it shows how Sir John Mandeville is able to recognize that poor men are more deserving than beasts, which is great. Leads to a big question: where are all of the disabled people? Does this monk define disabled people as people? He says that people have the knowledge and capacity to work, and yes, most do, but not everyone is able-bodied. My hope is that they’re being accommodated and given good jobs, but sadly, I’m faced with a more likely option. The monk who is writing this work considers a perfect city to be one without any disabled people. We can also observe the classism that the monk exhibits in the assigning of souls to animals, or animals to souls? It is not entirely clear. What is clear is that beauty is linked to morality as well as to class. This gives us the question: in this system of morality, are a person’s actions and character determined by their class, or is their class determined by their character? The more important question is: are we supposed to buy this correlation between class and character? On the surface, the answer is no. The person doing the talking is a monk of a non-Christian religion who is talking about reincarnation, which is not recognized by Catholic doctrine. Looking deeper, the fact that this didn’t actually happen leads me to believe that we are supposed to buy it. A Buddhist monk didn’t say this; a monk created a knight and another monk and put them into conversation. If Sir John Mandeville doesn’t respond, it isn’t due to his lack of a witty retort; the monk has all the time in the world to think of a fiery comeback, it is because the monk is choosing to have him leave this point entirely unchallenged. Also, considering we are very much in the days of kings and queens, it seems to me as if we should be buying it.

 

So long and thanks for all the fish,

Gev, the Scaled Scorch

The Book of Marvels and Travels by John Mandeville: Egypt

Sir John Mandeville’s description of Egypt, the longest description he has given to anywhere, is quite interesting. He still maintains his steady flow of biblical references, of places to which pilgrims might be interested in visiting, but here he also seems interested in adding more ethnographic and historical detail, either sourced from previous accounts or simply invented whole cloth. The subject of the Sultan of Egypt takes up much of his description. He tells that this Sultan rules over five kingdoms (Egypt, called Canopat, Jerusalem, Syria, Aleppo, and Arabia) and provides references to previous rulers or places to help ground this information for his audience. Mandeville then goes on to list the Sultanate’s line of succession, though most of the names he gives are garbled, such as Melechinasser. He also adds references his European audience would be familiar with, such as which European king fought which Sultan, Richard the Lionheart and Saladin for example. Mandeville wants his audience to follow his story, so giving them context for a list of foreign rulers in a land they are completely unfamiliar with aids in one’s understanding of the exotic locations discussed.

Mandeville also writes about the Sultan’s power and court. For example, he claims that the Sultan has three wives (one of which must be a Christian) and can have as many lovers as he pleases, and that he can “lead more than twenty thousand soldiers out of Egypt, and more than fifty thousand soldiers out of Syria, Turkey, and other realms subject to him. These passages must be his invention. How could a person who has never even seen Egypt know how many soldiers he can raise or how his court operates? Mandeville keeps up his persona, though, even claiming that he was a mercenary for the Sultan for a long time. He ads that the Sultan wanted him to marry a local princess and thus abjure his faith, but he refused. This, along with the Sultan’s Christian wife, displays Mandeville’s attitude that the Islamic world poses a sexual challenge to Christians that must be resisted.

A lot of his information about Egypt comes from the Bible and related Christian writings and lore. He identifies the pyramids as “Joseph’s Barns,” a reference to the book of Genesis where Joseph has grain stored for the coming seven years of famine. The association of the pyramids and Joseph’s Barns was long established in Christian writing, and Mandeville repeats what he has read about to his own audience. Interestingly, he notes that some people say the pyramids are tombs, though Mandeville rejects this as baseless. He throws out the correct explanation to reaffirm the commonly held Christian belief about Egypt. Mandeville also borrows information from more secular sources. He regurgitates a story about the phoenix which is said to come to a temple in the city of Heliopolis to regenerate, which he took from a popular description of the mythical animal in a Bestiary. He also provides an ‘Egyptian’ alphabet which shows at least some awareness of Coptic. Mandeville’s description of foreign places is predicated on what information he had access to in Europe, demonstrating his genuine scholarship and curiosity, though to a point. He may be interested in distant places, but not enough to actually ensure what he is writing down is correct. He is willing to trust the established authorities (such as the Bible and previous Christian authors) and in so doing repeats their misinformation to a whole new audience.

The Travels of Ibn Battutah: Mecca

Finally reaching the city he set out on a pilgrimage for, Ibn Battutah arrives in Mecca and prays there.  He goes into immense detail about the beauty of Mecca, including the people there as well, and it is clear his focus was towards the religious significance of this place. Ibn Battutah goes on to talk about preparing for their arrival in Mecca, saying that on the way he “entered the pilgrim state and in my enthusiasm I did not cease crying Labbaika Allahumma through every valley and hill and rise and descent” (46). This “pilgrim state” seems to be a deep religious state of mind that involves constant praying, but even more interesting is how he says it excites him, which really puts into perspective the role of religion in his time. That being said, the section where he actually talks about being in Mecca is eclipsed somewhat by his continued retelling of travelling away from it, and while staying there Ibn Battutah decided he desired to continue travelling the world for the remainder of his life. His further travels after Mecca involve meeting several important people too, including several sultans and kings as well as many others that he recalls fondly and left impressions on him. Most of the basis on which he meets these new people is still in the context of his religious endeavors though, even more so considering the importance of Mecca as a holy place.

The journey to Mecca began with a lot of emphasis on the maintenance of water reserves. Given this attention to detail, it seems that Ibn Battutah does not exaggerate the dangerous aspect of this pilgrimage in the slightest. Hardship is never lacking in religious ventures of this time, but the pilgrimage to Mecca appears especially brutal. Yet while it is also important to plan and not die of thirst, Ibn Battutah makes it clear that over supplying oneself is not acceptable either. “They provision themselves and wash their clothes, and also deposit any surplus of provisions they may have, taking with them only the amount of their strict necessities” (45). Part of the pilgrimage involves humility and sacrifice, otherwise it would not be as important when the pilgrim arrives in Mecca. So while the journey is definitely through harsh environment with food and water being scarce, part of the struggle with traversing this terrain is self inflicted to a degree.

I think a main goal of Ibn Battutah focusing so much on the arrival at Mecca is to inspire others to follow in his footsteps and make the Pilgrimage themselves. At the same time, he seems to be preparing the reader for what they should expect from this journey (up to this point of course). The descriptions of these places as beautiful and captivating serves to arouse curiosity, while the talk of provisions and days of painful travel also warn future pilgrims to prepare accordingly. In this sense, even the knowledge of someone else’s experience should be considered useful in preparing for the trip. This section of the text was very heavy on Islamic religious practices, and while I found that very interesting, it also was a bit repetitive at times. Not only did he pray a lot, but Ibn Battutah must have really enjoyed talking about praying too.

Margery Kempe Chp 29-32 Jerusalem-Bethany-Back to Venice- Assisi-Rome

Margery, now in Jerusalem, continues to visit Holy sites within the city such as Golgatha, weeping at each one at the thought of Christ’s torture at the hands of men. Presumably she travels to all these places on foot as she does not mention another mode of travel. She does not recieve aid from her fellow travelers, especially when she is walking up  Mount Quarantania, but only recieves help from Friars and “Saracens” which according to Britannica was used at some point in the middle ages to describe anything or anyone originating from Arabia. This defintely shows something special about Jerusalem with the peaceful interactions between faith, where Margery herself states that an Arab/or Muslim man would help up the mountain when she was beginning to get tired and where Catholic Grey Friars would supply her with water and comfort her when her “fellow country men would not acknowledge her”

She eventually makes her way to Bethany to visit the homes of Mary and Martha, as well as the tomb of Lazarus. Again Palestine is an interesting comparison to England with Margery her self stating she would walk around the country Muslim/or Arab people would accompany her and aide her, giving her special attention, as well as stating the entire populice of the area (Both Christian and Muslim) was kind to her and that all interactions were good  unlike her interactions with her fellow countrymen.

She eventually returns to Jerusalem and then Ramleh, where God commands her to go to Rome and then to return to England, and that she is pardoned in those places just the same as if she were in Jerusalem. She eventually boards a ship (presumably the same route she came with) to return to Venice. Though her companions are ill, Christ assures her that no one will die on the ship.

Eventually when they arrive in Venice, again her companions abandon her. She meets a man with a great hump on his back and, remembering her confessors words foretelling that a hunchback will accompany her when her companions abandon her, asks him to accompany her to Rome. He is reluctent because of his fear of robbers which I presume indicates this was a common issue in the area to get to Rome that travelers had to work around. I assume the typical way they would get around this is travelling in large groups with weapons, I say this because the man originally refuses to travel with Margery because he acknowledges that her companions have left her and therefore they would be left alone and have no one to carry crossbows and swords to protect them from robbers. Eventually Margery convinces him only on the condition that they travel with two Friars and some women, one of which carrys an image of Christ with her. This group including the man with the hump (Richard) were much kinder to Margery, presumbly because they themselves were quite religious and seemed to have resonated with her weeping.

Along the journey to Assisi, again Margery stays at another person’s house to rest and eat (which because of how many times this happened I assume is common in Medieval travel) where she loses and finds her ring dedicated to Christ.

Eventually Margery arrives in Assisi with Richard, with the method of travel not mentioned, where she meets Margaret Florentyne. The two ask this woman if they can join her party until Rome. Richard specifically asks because he hopes to avoid thieves by travelling with Margret, who presumably has a much larger party (possibly with weapons) that protects against robbers and other criminals. Margaret agrees, and all three travel together into Rome.

In Rome, Margery is recieved into the Hospital of Saint Thomas and recieved communion and confession every Sunday. Again the method of travel to Rome, aside from travelling with a large party, is not mentioned.

The Travels of Ibn Battutah: Baghdad

Having joined a new caravan, Ibn Battutah travels over land and sea before arriving in Baghdad. He is far less impressed by this city than the others he has come to, as it seems to be on the decline and there is nothing stunningly beautiful about the city, save the Tigris river flowing through it, which he compares to “a necklace ranged between two breasts,” once again ascribing feminine traits to a city in his descriptions (75).  At this point Ibn Juzayy inserts a segment of a poem by Abu Tammam, which similarly laments the deterioration of Baghdad. While unimpressed by the city as a whole, Ibn Battutah is, however, greatly amazed by the bathhouses of the city, which have individual cubicles for privacy and provide their patrons with multiple towels in order to cover themselves properly. It’s clear from his tone that this is what he feels a bathhouse should be like, unlike the one in Egypt, where he was horrified by the way the patrons did not cover themselves. 

 

Ibn Battutah also lists the number of mosques within the city, and describes the Mustansiriyah College, and how teaching is carried out within it. He again speaks of the great men he encounters, this time the Sultan Abu Sa’id, who is of course also a man of great generosity and excellence. He breaks his account of Abu Sa’id’s charity towards a group of blind beggars to tell of the Sultan’s later life, how he killed the amir that had held power over him when he ascended to the throne at a young age, and his later death at the hands of one of his jealous wives. This section seemed a sharp contrast to the ones surrounding it, and I wondered whether it was inserted to give some more dramatic entertainment to the audience through a story of political and romantic intrigue. It is unclear when or from who Ibn Battutah heard this story, since he is recounting both his journey and the events of Abu Sa’id’s death after they happened, but it’s unlikely that Ibn Battutah was there himself when the fateful murders took place. So it is very likely that, even if he is getting this from another source, it may have already been dramatically embellished by the time it reached him.

Ibn Battutah then returns to the account of his journey, traveling along with the Sultan in his mahallah so that he can see all the ceremonials performed for him. He describes the musicians that play for him, the amirs, the standard-bearers, and the many soldiers that march with them, as well as the punishments they suffer for lagging behind their company. By doing this Ibn Battutah demonstrates the great power of the Sultan, to command so many, as well as a sort of equality in his treatment, as no one, whether they be of high or low rank, is exempt from being punished for wrongdoing. Ibn Battutah journeys with them for ten days, until they arrive in the city of Tabriz.

The Itinerary of Benjamin of Tudela: Jerusalem

In this passage, Benjamin of Tudela describes the demographic makeup of Jerusalem, lists several landmarks of note, writes a bit about infrastructure, and describes the surroundings of the city, including the Mount of Olives, the Sea of Sodom, and the valley of Jehoshaphat. Reading this, we can get some idea of the conditions in and around the city at the time, and what the important religious sites were like. He came from just north of Jerusalem from “Mahomerie-le-Grand” or Gibeon, according to him three parasangs from Jerusalem (probably just over ten miles distance, a day or two’s journey). As is common with Benjamin of Tudela, he records no specifics about travel logistics, length of stay, or dates

Jerusalem is and was one of the holiest (if not the holiest) site in all three Abrahamic religions. Since long before Benjamin of Tudela it has been a place unique in all the world because of this. Though he calls the city small, he describes it as very religiously, ethnically, and linguistically diverse, inhabited by Jacobites, Syrians, Greeks, Georgians, Franks, and various others. Since Benjamin’s journey likely began in the mid-1160s, Jerusalem would have still been under Crusader rule for another decade or so, until 1187. He estimates that only 200 Jews remained in Jerusalem, probably a result of the policies of the Christian kings—Jews were deported or temporarily banned throughout much of this period. He does still describe Jewish and Muslim inhabitants, however, and Muslim, Christian, and Jewish holy sites. Jewish dyers did have singular access to the profession in exchange for a small annual tax, according to Benjamin. This was clearly not a high point of the Jewish population in Jerusalem, but perhaps not the darkest either. He notes that the few hundred Jews in the city all live together in one corner of the city, under the Tower of David. Isolation of Jewish communities, either self-imposed or decreed from above, has long been common, especially during hostile administrations. He also writes that there are old Israelite cemeteries just outside the city, but the Christians had been destroying the sepulchres and using the stones to build their own houses.

Since Benjamin of Tudela often writes in a fairly impersonal manner and does not typically discuss logistics or personal experiences, it’s difficult to tell what his experience of Jerusalem was like as a Jewish man, but it seems that he didn’t face any difficulties traveling freely in and out of the city from authorities, at least not ones he found worth mentioning. He talks briefly about some existing Jewish holy sites, including the wall of the court of the Temple, and the old pool used by priests where Jews write their names on the wall. Interestingly, he spends more time on an anecdote about the sepulchres of the kings of Judah than on any other aspect of the city. The story is an explanation of why the exact locations of the sepulchres are hidden and sealed up, as told to him by a Rabbi Abraham el Constantini. Rabbi Abraham is one of the infrequent individuals mentioned which Benjamin of Tudela has a personal exchange with; in other cases, he also relays stories as told to him by Rabbis, whom he clearly finds trustworthy as a whole. This makes sense: Rabbinical status would have implied respectability and learnedness to him.

This excerpt doesn’t directly explain the political and religious climate of Jerusalem at the time, but that theme does run through many parts of it, giving unique insight into the relationship between Christians, Jews, and Muslims from the point of view of a foreigner. It feels like a sort of uneasy accord. However, this is a fairly short piece of writing, and Benjamin of Tudela was simply a traveler, who probably didn’t spend very much time in Jerusalem. As usual, Benjamin is focused mostly on architecture, sightseeing, general lifestyles, interesting stories, and Jewish communities. At most places he stops, he at least briefly describes the condition of the Jewish population, if it exists, potentially indicating that his intended audience is primarily other Jews.

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