By: Audrey Carr
Patti Labelle: Mac and Cheese
In 1960, Patti Labelle made mac and cheese on “Oprah.” She was showcasing her cookbook, Labelle Cuisine. The story behind this dish comes from her background as a singer. She performed in London with pianist Elton John and invited him for a meal, one of her signature dishes being mac and cheese.
In 2015, her sweet potato dish became increasingly popular as she started selling them in stores like Walmart. After the success of this dish, she began selling her mac and cheese, now her best seller. African American singer and songwriter Patti Labelle has served as more than just an icon in America’s pop culture; she has influenced various people from different cultures and ethnicities through the success and affordability of her mac and cheese. The recipes used in her brand reflect broader social and cultural meanings beyond her personal identity.
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Picture yourself indulging in a spoonful of piping hot mac and cheese. The dish melts away worries and provides warmth from the inside. It feels like a hug of creamy satisfaction, whether you’re at home or at a restaurant with a large group. Savor this moment and discover a sense of nostalgia.
A pivotal moment in my life and many others was the COVID-19 pandemic. Eating habits became familiar due to the boredom and isolation people faced. In this time of uncertainty, people, including myself, sought reassurance and comfort. The success of boxed mac and cheese brands skyrocketed. Brands like Kraft reflect African American foodways through themes of comfort and cultural adaptation. Kraft CEO Miguel Patricio notes that “sales rose 4.8% to $26.2 billion in 2020 after sinking 4.9% in 2019.” Although the brand continues to shift the look of its boxes to draw in consumers, the affordability of the box remains constant.
In addition to the success of the boxed brands, restaurants have adapted from mac and cheese, which is known as a simple easy dish, to a luxury dish appearing on menus. I enjoy dining out because of the atmosphere and sophisticated options. Fine dining is moving toward sophisticated comfort food meals that appeal to emotions. For example, Restaurants in New York, such as Balducci’s, have chef Katy Sparks making green chile macaroni with a cornmeal crust. It is possible to view the blending of contemporary goods with traditional African American cooking methods as a way to adapt and preserve cultural customs.
Brands like Kraft have refined traditional mac and cheese authenticity and have progressively become more modernized. The price and mass marketing have made it overwhelmingly accessible, ultimately reshaping what many people think is authentic mac and cheese. However, the effort to preserve or elevate mac and cheese continues in restaurants and among African American entrepreneurs. Mass produced meals such as Kraft mac and cheese have become constantly in demand throughout the years, the genuinity of traditional mac and cheese recipes are still very much beloved, giving consumers a personalized taste of the food we know all too well.