Author: Landon

(Landon Davis, March 22, 2025)

On our first full-day in Paris we ventured to La Recyclerie in the northern suburb of Saint-Denis, a low-income area with a large immigrant population. It’s located within the remnants of an old railway station that was built in the 1870’s and closed in the 1950’s. La Recyclerie was founded in 2014, and it takes pride in it’s designation as a third place, which was described to us as a hub that offers a variety of activities. This specific third place emphasizes sustainability and ecological consciousness within their activities. We saw a workshop named René (reborn), which helps people fix personal belongings. There was also a rooftop garden centered on promoting biodiversity and honey cultivation (there was a particularly cute cat!). However, the main driver of success is undoubtedly their restaurant, which has a fully organic menu with vegan/vegetarian options always available.

While I do appreciate the sentiment behind La Recyclerie, and their commitment to environmental responsibility, I was highly concerned with their exclusivity. A majority of the social services (composting, fixing defective personal goods, etc.) are not accessible without a membership. Although the cost of entry is relatively low (€30 per year), it could still serve as a barrier that prevents local residents of Saint-Denis from utilizing La Recyclerie’s sustainable initiatives. This establishment also prides itself on the nutritious dining options that are undisputedly good for the environment. However, we were told that they charge a premium price to all meals, thus further alienating the low-income local inhabitants; however, there is a discount offered on meals if a membership is purchased. In my opinion, I find it unjust to require a membership to access the social services and discounts offered by La Recyclerie, and I find myself heavily questioning how this establishment benefits it’s community. I observed that the clientele did not feel representative of Saint-Denis at large; everyone there was young and chic, and the space felt like a bubble compared to the diverse demographics of the neighborhood.

Despite it’s progressive initiatives, La Recylerie faces significant economic challenges due to their status as a private entity. Our guide mentioned that the parent company of this establishment owns multiple cafes and restaurants in Paris centered on progressivism, he mentioned one that promoted feminist thought. Obviously I agree with these sentiments, however I do fully believe that using social issues as a form of marketing is wrong. I found La Recyclerie to, at it’s core, to be a trendy restaurant which uses the aesthetics surrounding sustainability as a branding tactic, thus commodifying ecological awareness. The services provided are only accessible to those who can afford it, and therefore excludes residents of the low-income community surrounding it.

Link to Écolothèque website. 

        Montpellier has positioned itself as a leader of the ecological and agricultural transition within France. Isabelle Terrasson, Head of Agroecology and Food for the city of metropole, sat down in a meeting with us to discuss how Montpellier plans to balance urban expansion with agricultural preservation and food accessibility. Given her position, she plays a vital role in shaping the city’s approach to food systems and agro-ecology through public policy.  

         Terrasson explained to us that Montpellier’s agricultural landscape is under extreme pressure to expanding urbanization, coupled with the prediction that 40% of farmers will retire within the next 3 years. To lessen the pressure, the city has implemented strategies to preserve farmlands and natural landscapes, support ecological transitions, and support food democracy. Examples of

initiatives include mobile slaughterhouses, developing local food systems, public contracts for supplying school canteens, and creating agro-ecological reference systems for farmers to test innovations. Terrasson went into great detail describing the city’s wholesale food hub (MIN), which ensures that locally produced products reach markets efficiently. I also found the public contracts to be interesting; they prioritize providing high-quality and nutritious foods to school canteens, which reinforces the city’s commitment to food democracy.

         Terrasson highlighted food insecurity to be a pressing issue within Montpellier, where 26% of the population lives in. Food aid programs provide the equivalent of 1.1 million meals per year to residents but concerns of self-dignity and access to high-quality foods surround their distribution. The city’s strategy against food insecurity is to improve knowledge on healthy habits, expand current networks sustainable shopping and increase access to local produce. Terrasson emphasized that the city is not dealing with “food deserts” but rather faces food “mirages” and “swamps”, where food is available but not nutritious. What I took away from this experience is that addressing the agro-ecological challenges within Montpellier requires coordination between local governments and residents at large.  

        Education is also a major part of Montpellier’s agro-ecological transition, as exemplified by Ecolotheque. This is a recreation center which introduces children to biodiversity, sustainable

(Landon Davis, March 12th, 2025)

agriculture and ecological responsibility; no other place like this exists in all of France. It’s not a fully working farm, but rather an interactive space which aims to engage children aged 4-12 in

hands on experiences (bread-making, composting, animal care, art). There’s an insistence upon using low-impact and organic cultivation methods, and I was impressed by the wide array of crops being grown. There were also various bird species (some being endangered), we had a very interesting run-in with a turkey!  

        Ecolotheque primarily funded through the city of Montpellier,

(Landon Davis, March 12th, 2025)

alongside private donations and parent contributions. They charge between €3-45 euros per day depending on parent income, with an average cost of €29. It’s expensive compared to other recreation centers, but it provides significant developmental benefits, particularly for children for hyperactivity and other disabilities.  

Food is culture!