By its name, Cordes-sur-Ciel is perched in the sky. The 800 year old village demonstrates the styles of pre-Renaissance architecture and city planning. The Gothic buildings compliment the narrow, winding cobblestone streets. As we drove into the village, I immediately noticed the old battlements nestled into the mountainside above the surrounding landscape. After a short hike up to the top of the old village, I was left with a perfect view of the countryside and village below. The streets are dotted with artisans, craftsmans, and small cafes. I was especially taken by the shop of a master watchsmith and jeweler (Simon-pierre Delord), who had intricate, one of a kind, pieces inspired by the village in the sky.
The village was one of the first “bastides” or fortified medieval towns of the 13th century. Founded by Raymond VII, Count of Toulouse, the village was fortified to defend the Count’s northern territory from Cathar Heretics. The bastide would replace the town of Saint-Marcel, which Simon de Montfort had destroyed. The village would bring artists who were attracted by the natural beauty of the region. While the village would be near forgotten during the middle ages, it would be revived following the Second World War through the work of painter Yves Brayer.
After leaving Cordes-sur-Ciel, we stopped at Domaine Gayard, an organic and biodynamic winery in the Gaillac region of Languedoc. In pursuit of biodynamics, the vineyard lands also cultivate orchards, olives, grains, truffles, aromatics, and pasture. The Gaillac region is of the oldest French wine producing lands dating back to the 2nd century as the Romans brought amphora production to the region. Some of the grapes cultivated by Domaine Gayard are of the ancient varieties that were found during the early history of the region. Considering that these grapes are landrace crops, crops which are native to and evolved with the region, they are suited to the region and its changes. Ancient cultivars are demonstrating to be resistant to climate changes and are suited to grow with little water and irrigation making this region one to watch for climate change response within the wine industry.
Following our walking tour of the vineyard, we were given a tasting of Gayard wines. The tasting consistedof two white wines, an orange wine, and two red wines. The Mauzacwas characterized by green notes, like green apple. The Loin de l’Oeil was characterized with a particular roundness from the one year of French oak casking. Gayard’s orange wine features standard maceration and is characterized by the fermented smell and taste. The red wines were acidic and fully bodied with one aged in amphora.
Harris, Vanessa. “Cordes-sur-Ciel: Dramatic and Timeless.” Life on La Lune, August 31, 2019. https://lifeonlalune.com/2019/08/31/cordes-sur-ciel-dramatic-and-timeless/.
Office de Tourisme La Toscane Occitane. “Cordes-sur-Ciel.” La Toscane Occitane. Accessed March 17, 2025. https://www.la-toscane-occitane.com/visiter/villes-villages/cordes-sur-ciel/.
Photos taken by Nathan Fedornak March 15, 2025