Category: La Une in English Page 4 of 17

– Ethan Farber

Welcome, American traveler! You’ve arrived in Toulouse, France, the fourth-largest city on French soil by population and an important cultural and commercial pole in the southwest of the country. Here’s a map to get yourself situated.

Map of France

Like any settlement large enough, there’s plenty to see and plenty more to do in this wonderful city. The trick is finding your way around town, and that can be tough if you have never been to Toulouse before. You have probably brought along a book or two full of tips on what to do, where to go, what to eat, and what to see in the city. I certainly did.

Knowing what there is to see is only one part of the equation, though. The other part is getting there. Toulouse offers a wide range of public transportation services: there are buses, metro lines, a tram way, taxi cabs, and shuttles. It’s really quite easy to get from Point A to Point B.

The point of this article, however, is not to advise you to simply avail yourself of Toulouse’s public transportation system. You’re going to be here for the next few months, American traveler, and you’ll undoubtedly ride the metro and the bus many a time. Instead, I want to introduce to you a different way of making your way around the city. Consider the follow photo.

Le canal du midi, photo de Ethan Farber

What a lovely scene full of serenity—hold on a tic. What’s that? ENHANCE.

ENHANCE

Is it a bird? A plane? No, it’s a bike. A bike, I say! What’s so special about a bike, you reply. Nothing inherently. It’s just that the French, and indeed Europeans in general, love bikes. While out and about in Toulouse, hardly a minute passes without several Toulousains whizzing by on a bike. It’s really quite a shift from my experiences growing up in the suburbs of St. Louis. On reflection, one can understand why riding a bike is so popular in a city like Toulouse. Although Toulouse is the fourth-largest city in France, the center of the city is not particularly large, and the time spent walking to the nearest bus stop and waiting for the next bus could very well be enough to bike to one’s destination. Moreover, it is exceptionally easy to ride a bike around Toulouse: most roads have a lane reserved for bikes, and there is even a public service that makes bikes available. It’s called Velo Toulouse, and the service consists of hundreds of bike depots set up throughout the city that you can rent whenever you want.

A similar service exists in other French cities, including Paris. In my opinion, the existence of Velo Toulouse should be seen as a symptom of a cultural attitude toward transportation and time. The French, and perhaps Toulousains in particular, have a more supple conception of timeliness than one often experiences in the States. It’s no coincidence that there exists a “Toulousain quarter-hour,” referring to the extra 15 minutes that one often has to expect when dealing with anything from concerts to leaving for school in the morning. As my host and other denizens of Toulouse have corroborated, this relaxed attitude toward time is characteristic of the south of France, where the people enjoy taking their time and appreciating their surroundings.

My host in particular made the point of contrasting this with what she perceives as the American inclination toward optimizing one’s time so as to be as productive as possible. While neither of us pretend to have a firm grasp on the subtle differences between the psyches of different cultures, I think at the very least that this raises an important point that I want to convey to you, American traveler.

Ride a bike during your time here. Once every week or two should suffice. Don’t think of the metro and the bus as the only ways of getting around in Toulouse, because neither one gives you a good handle on the physical layout of the city, and neither one encourages you to pay attention to your surroundings.

Remember to take your time while you’re here. Try to enjoy travelling throughout the city. Take the side streets and the alleyways every now and again. Only then will you begin to truly feel like you’re getting to know Toulouse. You’re spending a semester abroad in order to travel and learn and explore. So explore a bit, I implore you.

Bike ride in Toulouse, photo by Ethan Farber

You never know what wonderful scene you might come across.

Dear Readers,

We’re already at the end of the semester; there is a week of class left and at the end of this week Dickinson in France is headed to Paris with the second-semester students (you’ll be able to read about this excursion in the next and last edition of La Une 2015-2016 that will come out in May).

In this edition of La Une, Naomi speaks about the recent strikes in Toulouse as well as her civic service activity at ASEC Bagatelle. Genevieve will share with you her observations on the difference between French and American cinema.

Enjoy,

Julia

-Naomi Johnson

Before coming to Toulouse I tried to prepare myself for what I thought French life would be like. I knew that dinner would be later and the teaching style would be different. But, there are things that I simply never considered at all, aspects of lifethat you need to live in the country in order to really understand them. The main things that stand out to me are the labor strikes. They have had a surprisingly prominent effect on my life and shaped my understanding of French culture.

As an American, the idea of labor strikes are rather foreign to me. In the United States labor strikes seem to be much rarer, and when strikes do occur they are usually confined to a single city or company. The only strike that I really remember is the Chicago Teacher’s Union strike in response to unfair treatment of teachers. However, this strike did not have much of an actual effect on me as I live just outside Chicago.

Strikes at Compans-Caffarelli against the Labor Law. Photo by Naomi Johnson.

So, as I stood near the Compans-Cafarelli metro stop last Thursday and watched an enormous procession of protestors marching as part of labor strikes across France, it left a big impression on me. It was interesting to see such a large demonstration from people of different jobs all protesting the same thing.

I learned that these strikes are in response to labor reforms proposed by the government with the goal of making the economy more efficient by increasing the ease of hiring and firing employees. However, many French people believe that this proposal will decrease workers’ rights. If these reforms came to be, the work week could be lengthened. More insulting, the bill came during the presidency of Francois Hollande (who supports the bill), a left wing politician who many thought would protect workers’ rights.

The other day I was coming back from the airport after travelling over weekend. I had heard that there was a strike targeting airport transportation. In order to get home I had to take two buses, the tram and both metro lines. It was a time consuming and frustrating process, but left a lot of time for me to reflect on the labor strikes. On the tram I heard several other English speakers talking, complaining really, about the strikes. One man paternalistically stated that the French only have all these strikes because they do not understand the importance of working. Whether it was meant as a joke or not, I found it rather insensitive. He hadn’t considered the importance of these strikes in French culture or the complexity of the issues. As a person that currently resides in Toulouse, I challenge myself to not condemn things that can be inconvenient, such as the strikes, as a problem with French society, but rather participate in conversations about them.

-Naomi Johnson

Throughout my service learning with ASEC Bagatelle, I’ve learned many things. I think the most important thing I’ve learned is how to get along with people who are part of a culture that is completely different from my own. At first, I was nervous to speak to the children and coordinators at my civic service. I worried that they would think I wouldn’t be useful because I didn’t speak French fluently. However, I learned that the best way to build relationships with these people was to be true to myself. The moments where I was most comfortable with myself were the moments where I had the best interactions with others.

ASEC Bagatelle. Photo by Naomi Johnson.

I think it has also been a collectively enriching experience. By tutoring students and discussing with the coordinators I learned to interact with both the youth and the adults. I can learn about French culture from them, and they can learn about American culture from me.

Naomi with a student at ASEC Bagatelle. Photo by Naomi Johnson.

My time at my service learning has allowed me to experience another culture during an extended period of time. I’ve had memorable moments where I had a strong rapport with the children I worked with, in particular, when I spoke with S about race issues in the US and in France. However, for me what is more important is that fact that I feel comfortable at my civic service. I think that each time I speak to a child at my civic service, we participate in a cultural exchange. I especially like speaking to the children because they seem to have fewer preconceived notions about the world yet are very perceptive. Throughout my conversations with the others at my civic service, I realized that knowing another language can be extremely important. Without my French skills, I would never be able to have this experience at my civic service. I’ve learned that an intercultural relationship can be incredibly simple; however, it requires that an effort be made by both sides of the communication.

-Geneviève Pecsok

A camera lens from the François Verdier antique market. Photo by Genevieve Pecsok.

I am lucky enough to have family friends who live in Toulouse and have given me a warm welcome to “La Ville Rose”. One Sunday in February, they kindly invited me to their Desmoiselles apartment for lunch. I will not even get into the details of our full-course meal, which was very different from the simple meal I had expected. That is a cultural analysis for another day. What caught my attention the most was that after lunch, they took me to see a movie. Going to the movies is, of course, a staple activity of many cultures. So, why was I thrown off by this? In fact, I have noticed a subtle yet important difference in the way movies are perceived between the two cultures. In the United States, there is a sort of stigma around going to the movies. Our culture is one that is constantly centered on screens, and simultaneously, the fight against screens. We are seeing a push in favor of more face-to-face interactions and an emphasis on the preservation of classics. I personally love films, but for me, it is a guilty pleasure. Sometimes I opt for seeing the movie version instead of reading the book. Other times, I see it as an indulgence, a way to step out of my life for a moment, with buttered popcorn in one hand and Twizzlers in the other. It is a leisure activity that allows me to momentarily escape my responsabilities : I should be writing my paper, I should be interacting with my mom instead of sitting next to her while on my phone, I should be taking advantage of the beautiful weather or being active.

I do not mean to say that the American film industry is not vibrant. On the contrary, American cinema is booming and setting precedents. From Hollywood to Cannes, I truly believe that both cultures greatly appreciate film. However, I cannot help but notice that cinema has a different place in culture in France. Here, it is seen as an art form, a base for discussion. We go to the movies with the intention of sharing our ideas and reflections afterward. In general, I see an overarching appreciation for the art of film that is not the norm in the United States. Of course, there are exceptions in both cultures, but it seems that the American film fanatic is an average French person. My hosts often go to the movies and it’s a topic that regularly comes up in our conversations. Another family friend told me she goes to the movies several times a week. Movies are often mentioned in my classes and I have even discussed film with the French college students I volunteer with.

Books about cinema at the François Verdier antique market. Photo by Genevieve Pecsok.

After we went to the movies that Sunday afternoon in February, we had a discussion about how we could relate to the characters and themes in the film. Unlike in the U.S., going to the movies is respected and not seen only as an indulgence. While American cinema is often associated with well-known actors, junk food, and special effects, in France, I see an emphasis on talent and storyline, artistic expression and depth. I really appreciate the centrality of film in French society. The difference between the two cultures is not immediately obvious, but it has changed my own perception of going to the movies, a mentality that I will be bringing home with me to the United States.

Vintage cameras, also at the François Verdier antique market ! Photo by Genevieve Pecsok.

Dear Readers,

It’s hard to believe, but we’re already half way through the semester ! The students are studying for mid-terms and then they’ll pack their bags to visit various parts of Europe and France. In this second edition of La Une 2016, Morgan, a WashU student, tells what Valentine Day’s was like in France, and Lydia, a student from Bowdoin, reveals five essential rules to understanding fashion in Toulouse. Grant, also from WashU, will share with you our trip to the Pyrenees (see “Excursions”).

Dickinson in France would like to wish you a pleasant a break and will be back in April.

Enjoy,

Julia

-Morgan Ippolito

My love story with Valentine’s Day began when I was rather young. Each year at school, we made Valentine’s Day boxes, which means we found shoe boxes and reused them, decorated with red paper and bows, to receive Valentine’s Day cards. Each student made cards for everyone and passed them out on Valentine’s Day. Of course, the cards were accompanied with little candies. After that, I fell in love with Valentine’s Day. I celebrate it every February and make sure that my family and friends know how much I love them when I give them a Valentine’s Day card.

Valentine’s Day Cards. Photo de Morgan Ippolito.

This year, my Valentine’s Day experience was much different. In fact, the French don’t really celebrate it all. Maybe there are a few couples that do, but in general no one truly recognizes the holiday. In conversation with my French friends, I learned that Valentine’s Day is considered too commercialized. Moreover, the day does not accurately express feelings one may feel for another, according to the French. Why should one say “I love you” on a designated day? Love is a constant state and cannot be expressed through only one day. I find this point of view rather philosophical and sophisticated, and I agree with it. However, my agreement does not stop me from feeling sadness: even if Valentine’s Day is too commercialized, I still adore it. Yes, love is constant, but why can’t we have a day where everyone knows that they are loved?

I was having a true moment of cultural shock when Valentine’s Day actually came around: I missed my family and friends so much. Nonetheless, I decided to reframe my situation by making Valentine’s Day cards for my friends and my host. I was worried : would my friends like the cards? Am I being too American? I strongly hoped that my actions would be well received. In giving the Valentine’s Day cards, I discovered that everyone, whether they are French or American, likes to receive a little treat and a note that means someone is thinking of them. I had created an opportunity to share my culture with others. I still miss American holidays, but I now feel more comfortable and happy: I have realized that everyone appreciates a moment where we all share a common sentiment.

-Lydia Godo-Solo

Let me preface this article with a statement: I love fashion. So when I was packing my three suitcases, one was a carry-on I promise, I knew my trip to Toulouse was my time to shine. I could express my love for fashion without the limitations of the Maine weather and people who like to wear sweatpants every day. One of the counselors in the study abroad office once told me that I was dressed like I was ready for Paris. My dream hit a little roadblock when two of my suitcases were overweight and I had to leave some clothes and shoes at the airport with my frustrated father. Now that I have been here in Toulouse for six weeks, I am an expert in Toulouse fashion. Here are a few rules:

1. If you do not have a black leather vest, do not come to France. I don’t think they even let you through Customs without one.
2. Toulousians love sneakers and they are very pratical. During the sales here, there were so many people I couldn’t move around in stores like Size? andCourir that specialize in selling name brand sneakers, like Adidas, Nike, Puma, Reebok, and Timberland. A favorite for young toulousians is the Stan Smith, a white sneaker by Adidas.
   

   Stylish sneakers in Toulouse. Photo de Lydia Godo-Solo.

3. In schools all over the Unites States, leggings in place of pants are very populaire. Here, no, thanks to God. I understand the attraction of leggings, but every day? Young French women wear skinny jeans almost all the time. Bonus points: if you were black or grey skinny jeans.
4. This is not surprising, but the French love scarves. But, not just any scarf. If your scarf cannot also serve as a blanket, leave it in your closet for the summer.
5. Since it is winter, I will give one last piece of advice on coats. Toulousians love their clothes in neutral colors, it is the same for jackets. Black, navy blue, olive green, and all fifty shades of grey. They love trench coats, military jackets, fur jackets, and jackets with fur (The two are different!).

And voila! No translation needed there. Five rules for fashion in Toulouse. You’re welcome! I could give you all more, but I can’t give away all my secrets.

Dear Readers,

First of all, we’d like to wish you a happy new year! We hope you enjoyed the break with your family and friends and that 2016 is off to a good start.

It’s once again that time of year where one semester comes to an end and another begins. While two Dickinson students will stay until the end of the year, 10 others recently went back to the US to continue their studies in their respective universities, Dickinson, WashU, Bowdoin, and Bryn Mawr. Two students will stay until the end of the year, and another has decided to prolong her stay in France and Europe for a few more months. We thank them for their participation throughout last semester and wish them the best of luck.

Before leaving, they shared some last thoughts and adivce.

How would you describe this semester ? What did you learn ?

My semester in Toulouse has been a success. True, there were challenges and I felt nostalgic for the States. I learned a lot and had a lot of fun. Above all, I learned to be independent and how to integrate into a new community or culture. – Jessamyn, student from Dickinson

During my first semester in Toulouse I have learned many useful skills about living in the city. One of the most important things I’ve learned is time management, especially when it comes to public transportation. School is not as close to home here, so it’s important to make sure I plan to have plenty of time to get to school and get back home.  – Lisa, year long student from Dickinson

What will you miss about Toulouse ?

What I will miss about Toulouse is its proximity to other interesttng places. During my stay in Toulouse I spent several days in the Pyrenees and other small cities around Toulouse like Albi, Carcassonne and Foix. I will miss being able to explore and discover my surroundings, since I already know them in the US – Jessamyn, Dickinson student

What I will miss most about Toulouse is two words. This phrase, “Thank you, goodbye!”, marked the beginning and end of every day as I left my bus — line 16 — and became a daily interaction with the bus drivers. It also serves to describe how I feel as I look to leave Toulouse and return to the United States. Thank you, Toulouse, for the unforgettable semester, and see you soon! – Mariette, Bowdoin student

Do you have advice for the new students ?

You have to get out of your comfort zone and speak as much as you can, but don’t forget to have fun. – Jessamyn, Dickinson student

My advice for the new students is to take advantage of the beginning of the semester when they don’t have too much work. There are so many interesting things to do in Toulouse, great museums, movies, and concerts. It’s also a great time to take day trips to nearby cities such as Carcassonne, Albi, or even Bordeaux (only 2 hours away!)– Lisa, year long student from Dickinson

In the beginning of January we welcomed 10 new students from three universities– Dickinson (Pennsylvania), WahsU (Missouri), et Bowdoin (Maine) – and from almost all corners of the US. In Toulouse they’ll continue their studies in Anthropology, Classics, Economy, International Business, Law, Linguistics, Literature, Mathematics, Marketing, Psychology, and French. We’re excited to begin this semester with them and hope they will enjoy their stay in Toulouse.

I’ll let two Spring semester students, Evelyn and Olivia, take over and tell you about their first impressions of Toulouse.

Enjoy,
Julia

-Olivia Weiner

Aside from the obvious passion for stinky cheese and fine wine, there is another great undeniable French love: good, lively conversation. And while I can’t really attest to it firsthand (seeing as my French language skills are more attuned to medieval history lectures than to normal social functions), there is no questioning the lively chatter and constant chorus of «je blague» that ensues when you throw French friends together. My host throws dinner parties where the conversation flows freely until two in the morning, where they die laughing–this is a point of pride, this joyful verbal repartee. Of course, I am still on the periphery of all this, catching pieces like listening from underwater.

However, wandering through the streets of Toulouse, I am coming to understand that this vivacity has its time and place–which is generally to say, among good friends in a social setting. As much as they love talking, Toulousains seem to have no problem with silence and solitude. In an American scene that generally involves everybody thumbing nervously through their smart phones and glancing at each other to avoid the silence of public transportation, I look around the metro in Toulouse and the people around me all look at the floor or at their laps. The cafés are dotted with people alone, at ease, having an afternoon glass. It’s an admirable ease, but it may also be testament to a greater reliance on a safe distance between strangers.

I notice that the houses here often have high walls and gates and series of doors, and office doors and shutters are closed. Socialization has too its architecture. In my classes at the University of Toulouse, I have to introduce myself in shaky French to the quiet student sitting next to me. I’ve been told a couple of times already by people I’ve met going out that we Americans are so open and talkative, eager to share stories with strangers. And I think back to my classes in the United States where on the first day we all introduce ourselves to the room, and I think it has to do with somehow always feeling new and like we’ve all just arrived. Where the English language becomes a sort of common denominator, the base communication for myriad people to connect.

After my initial effort, I find that the quiet French students respond with genuine kindness and interest, an easy smile right behind. But there is a tangible sense of belonging, sense of place, that explains the ease in both solitude and conversation. Even if at this point I’m just listening with an ear to a door, the murmur of laughter on the other side promises something beautiful.