Author: Eliette Whittaker

Today’s research stops in Montpellier were centered on the ways social solidarity and cooperation are practiced in short circuit (in the city of Montpellier) food systems (SCFSs). The sites are all powered by a shared political motivation: food democracy, citizen autonomy, and dignified access to quality food are necessary characteristics of transforming the food landscape. Today’s sites were all guided by the acknowledgement that food is a tool of political power, and that providing food through a variety of access points is a provision of human rights and social solidarity. I found it inspiring that these missions were carried out by a combination of actors: La Caisse alimentaire Commune: La Cagette (private business), l’Esperluette (social project, government funding) and VRAC (city project).

Our first stop took us to BioCoop (an organic grocery store) to discuss Montpellier’s common food fund. This BioCoop location participates in the project and accepts MonA, and the store owner acknowledged that stores like BioCoop have an air of privilege to them, so MonA helps to diversify clientele and expand access to organic products that could be hard to come by. The MonA system is a sociological research project that provides money (MonA currency) monthly, funded by 50% member and 50% city contribution. MonA is for anyone: participants represent diverse ages and incomes to highlight that food security programs are not poor people programs- food funds benefit the well-being of everyone. 

Next we visited La Caisse alimentaire Commune: La Cagette, a grocery cooperative. Members pay a one-time fee of €10 (decreased from €100 based on feedback and economic ability/profitability) and work 3 hours a week for the cooperative. Our guide explained that the 3 hours working a month obligation is more “collectively doing your part”, not “volunteering to something you’re external to”. The members can participate in the organization of the cooperative via committees and weekly, open assemblies. Increasing access to food is a priority for them, but I noticed a nearly all-white membership. Our point-person said that membership is primarily white and educated and that this privilege is a barrier to expanding food access, but targeting underprivileged folks is not a current priority of the cooperative. 

We then visited L’Esperuette, a food option representing social solidarity and food access in a neighborhood of high precarity and low quality food options. It is a way social behavior around food can change. The site was created with guidance by neighborhood residents, Pauline Scherer (sociologist with food systems solidarity expertise), and funding from the Metropole of Montpellier. It features a kitchen for communal cooking, a cafe/restaurant, and a grocery with bulk and organic options. The grocery did not seem to have sufficient supply for it to be a one-stop food source, so it’s more of a supplemental option. However, the 5 new food hubs like this in construction will be larger to provide more to more people. 

(Eliette Whittaker, March 13th, 2025) Photo of available products at l’Esperluette.

Our last research point was VRAC. This is a location for providing quality food with dignity at a lowered cost. It represents a common form of increasing access- using the capacity of social groups to purchase large quantities at low costs, ie bulk purchasing. There are over 100 diverse products available, ~50% locally (Montpellier) sourced and ~50% imported. I noticed that the shoppers were primarily people of color and the employees/volunteers were primarily white, which touches on the whiteness of 3rd places. VRAC members are encouraged to share time working there too, which works to instill participative democracy into the mission. Through discussing with VRAC leaders and observing the space, it was evident that this mission is fueled by social solidarity and using food as a political tool towards social change. 

(Eliette Whittaker, March 13th, 2025) Photo of the distribution set-up and products available at VRAC.

Link to Marché Gare website.

Marché Gare is an economic site of the food landscape transition. It’s a public service of the Metropole of Montpellier, and a representation of the strengths and capabilities of short circuit/chain food systems (SCFSs) and agro-ecological policies. Marché Gare promotes collective dynamism and diversification of the food chain. They share resources, costs, and risks amongst the players in the food chain, and involve diverse products, sellers, resources, and prices, which strengthens the resilience of the local food system and its key players. It serves as a central location for folks selling at markets (re-sellers) to buy food in bulk at lower prices, which can sometimes be locally sourced, (Charlotte Minnicks’ field notes 3/12) and for businesses to use resources, like the test kitchens, to try new practices at a lower, shared risk.

Gwenaëlle Rolland (left) and Professor Soldin (right) discussing Marché Gare. Pictured in the background is the set-up, featuring the distribution sites and refrigerator storage site. (Eliette Whittaker, March 13th, 2025)

We began our tour of Marché Gare with Olivier Lauro, the location director, and Gwenaëlle Rolland, the head of supply structuring. They provided us with a background and personal insight on the industry. Lauro commented on the political mission of Marché Gare, critiquing the current food industry that wedges profits inbetween food and people, the environment, and the entire food system. He emphasized that Marché Gare works to combat this, and that they want to instill the values of a SCFS into Montpellier to provide sustainability and well-being for its people, economy, and environment. He highlighted the political characteristics of food– that transforming food landscapes is inherently political and has the ability to make massive political, social, and economic change.

Our next stop of our tour took us into the sellers market of Marché Gare. We visited on a slow, off day: only 1 seller was there since their operation days (pre-market days) are Monday, Wednesdays, and Fridays and are normally full of businesses selling and purchasing. Per their website, Marché Gare involves 220 businesses. We walked around another section of Marché Gare where refrigerated produce is held. Observing the products gave interesting insight to some products: about 40-50% of products sold at Marché Gare are local, and 50-60% are imported (Isabella Heckerts’ field notes 3/12). I noticed the great diversity of products offered, like melons, citrus, nuts, and leafy greens, but noticed that the majority were imports and only a few I saw were grown in France. We visited the test kitchen area as well, which was inspiring as a place for businesses to share resources and risks to find new business practices that could work for them.

Produce in the refrigerator storage room. (Eliette Whittaker, March 13th, 2025)

Upon walking around Marché Gare, I noticed bins of moldy oranges in undesignated bins, prompting me to ask about their food waste diversion. Gwenaëlle Rolland was proud to reply that all businesses that are part of Marché Gare need to have their own waste and food waste diversion plan in place before they can participate in the program. On site, they offer a compost site and anaerobic digester, and a nonprofit organization comes to take food waste to a 3rd place of distribution, all of which are incentivized for the businesses via tax breaks for diversion.

Marché Gare seemed to be a promising example of the ways the government can literally facilitate the food landscape transformation and shortening of food systems. The Metropole of Montpellier funded the project with 4 million Euros, and Lauro seemed thankful for the cities support, although mentioned that the importance of food systems can sometimes be lost in the weeds of politics. To me, this commentary nodded that short chain food systems are best implemented via a combination of supports: both governmental and non-governmental. Alas, Marché Gare proved to be a site of the shortened food landscape that prioritizes economic viability, social solidarity, and environmental sustainablitity.

To me, food represents a connection to myself, my friends, and my family. I think of this past winter break and the ways food has been a point of connection for me. At my Nana’s house, we talked over a cup of coffee and piece of chocolate. I prepared scones for New Years Day for my family, inviting my sisters to join me in the process. We all spent a few minutes that morning together at the kitchen table- a moment that doesn’t happen often in our busy house, but when it does, it is special. Towards the end of break, I wanted to celebrate familial connection with a nearly symbolic dinner. I wanted a meal that was a time for us all to sit down together and connect over our food. I crafted us a variety of dishes, from soup to salad, a main course and a finishing small dessert. Food represents a shared experience within my household that is our source of connection.