Benjamin of Tudela traveled from the ancient city of Dan, Israel, to Damascus, Syria. It is unknown how long he stayed there for, however it is clear that his stay in Damascus made an impression on him. Benjamin described that the city of Damascus marked the start of the empire Nur-ed-din, and was home to the king of the Togarmim (aka the Turks). Damascus is a large city, surrounded by walls and with many gardens and plantations. At the time, it extended over 15 miles from one side of the city to the other. Benjamin claimed that there was no other place richer than Damascus in fruit. He then went on to describe more about the geography of the city. He explained that the city itself is situated at the food of Mount Hermon from which the rivers Amana and Pharpar flow. The Amana River flows through the city and water was brought to the houses of the great people, market-places and streets through aqueducts. Alternatively, the Pharpar River flows through the gardens and plantations of Damascus.
Damascus is a city that was known for carrying out trade with the rest of the world. Furthermore, Benjamin noted that there was an Arab Mosque of Damascus called Gami and was said to be the palace of Ben Hadad. Within the mosque there was a wall of crystal glass made of what he termed ‘magic’ workmanship. This glass allowed the time of day to be told according to the apertures that shined through it. The chambers in the palace were built of gold and glass, the columns were overlaid with gold, silver and marbles of all colors. The court in the mosque had a large head of gold and silver in the center. There was also a large bowl made of gold and silver rims. Benjamin described that it was as large as a cask, allowing up to three men to enter it and bathe at the same time. Suspended from the ceiling in the middle of the palace was the rib of one of the giants, that was said to have belonged to King Anak of the olden day giants. The rib was nine cubits long and two cubits wide. Benjamin then asserted that three thousands Jews lived in Damascus at the time, most of which were learned and wealthy men. Additionally, one hundred Karaïtes dwelled there, as well as four hundred Cuthim. He stated that there was peace between them however they did not intermarry.
I found this account to be much briefer than others. However, unlike many of Benjamin’s other accounts, Damascus seemed to have caught Benjamin’s eye geographically. It would appear that he was impressed by the gardens and plantations, as well as the fact that the city lies at the base of a mountain. I also find it interesting that the two rivers that flow through Damascus were used for very different purposes and would be curious to know if there was a specific reason why. Perhaps the quality of the water might be a reason. The enthusiasm with which he writes of the landscape/geography of the city also seems to suggest that Tudela was much different.
Although Benjamin might have been interested in the city’s geography, he certainly did not focus on history as much as he has in his past accounts. That said, most of his account on Damascus is dedicated towards explaining the layout of the Arab Mosque. I found Benjamin to be very respectful while describing the mosque and it would seem that his interest in the mosque laid in how different it is from temples he’d seen or even other structures that he’d visited. His detailed description of the manner in which time was told through the crystal glass could suggest that he was interested in documenting down this technique, perhaps to bring back home and inform others of. I also find it unusual that he did not further explain or question the thought that the rib belonged to a giant. Were giants commonly believed in at this time? Furthermore, I was surprised that he didn’t speak more about Ben Hadid if the mosque had been his palace.
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