Dickinson College Humanities Program in Norwich

Whitechapel Market was in some ways exactly what we expected: predominantly Muslim and Hindu. There were Halal butchers, veils, saris and curry vendors on every corner.  Most shoppers had tan complexions and wore Islamic or Hindu clothing; however, there were also white, black, and East-Asian shoppers. There were some ways in which Salaam, Brick Lane and our other readings about immigration to the East End didn’t prepare us, though: we saw a handful of authentic-looking English pubs when we expecting corner-to-corner curry joints; when we had anticipated a rowdy, bustling circus, the market seemed so empty that at first we weren’t sure we were in the right place. We walked up and down Whitechapel Road looking for a more likely candidate, resembling the market of Hall’s Chalky and Mr. Ali. We eventually realized we were in the right place, but since this is the holy month of Ramadan, the market is a little more subdued than usual. We also noticed the stall-keepers were almost entirely male, and that many of the mannequins had pale skin and light hair. Among our favorite experiences: meeting a lifelong Londoner on a park bench and learning about the “decline” of the East End; being continually surprised by the various cultural characteristics and quirks of the East End population; and arguing about headscarves and religious tradition on a Bethnal Green picnic table. Hope you enjoy our pictures of the Whitechapel Market and the surrounding area – we really enjoyed our experience there, and we can’t wait to go back and see it after Ramadan.

Here are some links we thought you might like to check out:

This one claims to be the definitive website on Ronnie and Reggie Kray. You may remember these two gangsters from Salaam, and sure enough, when we asked our elderly informant about what he considers to be the “real” East End, the Krays were the first thing he mentioned. If you’re looking for a better idea of what the East End used to be like (and what some residents wish the East End still was like), take a look here.

See an informational website regarding Ramadan here.

The Royal London Hospital is located on the other side of Whitechapel road. There is a link here for more information about the hospital.
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The video on YouTube

Upon leaving the Arran House Hotel, we decided to walk to the Tottenham Court Road Underground Station.  This is likely the most efficient way to Notting Hill Gate, as we were able to take the Central Line directly to that station in less than fifteen minutes. The walk down Tottenham Court Road felt much like a normal, bustling, city street. Other than the presence of the Dominion Theatre right next to the Underground stop, nothing about the walk was distinctively “London.” However, once we entered the station we began to see much more of the cultural hodgepodge London society. A highlight was the sight of a couple making out on the train across from two women in burkas. The fact that such alarmingly different cultures could exist in the same car of the same train rang true with much of our summer reading about London.

Once we arrived at Notting Hill Gate, we found an abundance of ethnic restaurants lining the street. While we thought such different eateries would imply a diverse population, we found the exact opposite to be true. The area was filled with almost entirely white, apparently upper-class, by-passers. With a few dramatic exceptions, we found the area to be quite upscale, with immaculately designed townhomes and expensive restaurants and shops.

The station is named Notting Hill Gate because it is located on Notting Hill, which historically was the home to several toll gates.  The station is here because of both commercial and residential appeal of Notting Hill Gate.  People would travel to Notting Hill Gate because the area is almost a perfect living example of the hodgepodge of London’s cultural identity.  The streets have a variety of ethnic restaurants – there’s a tapas bar next to a dim sum restaurant, which is across the street from a kabob restaurant – as well as a selection of oddities and clothing shops.  There is no rhyme or reason to this area; Notting Hill Gate is a collection of interests from a variety of different cultures.  There is also a residential aspect, which ranges from growing upper middle class town houses to large flat buildings for people living paycheck to pay check.  It is in the Royal Borough of Kensington and Chelsea.

At our site we found a giant elephant statue.  It was a large metal elephant that was more air than substance – it was made of thin wires that intersected each other in a flowy pattern with a fan where an eye would be.  It was located outside of the Newcombe House on Notting Hill Gate.  The elephant is one in a series all over London to raise awareness about the upcoming Elephant Parade Event, which raises money for elephants world-wide.  The upcoming parade is not new but this is the first year it will be held in London.  As far as we saw no one took notice of the statue.

In an attempt to find out where the Notting Hill Carnival, an upcoming event, would be taking place, we decided to follow some signs that directed us to the point of the future festivities. Unfortunately, the signs quickly disappeared, and were (apparently) replaced with blue arrow signs attached to several poles up and down the street. As we began the trek down the roads where the signs were, we came across even more signs of affluence. There were gourmet shops, fishmarkets, and even a tailor shop packed with sewing machines. This was all quite fascinating, but at this point we had walked about 25 minutes and had not found the site of the carnival (so we thought). So we decided to make our way to the nearest Underground station. After some help from a woman on the street (Who introduced herself via weather-speak), and some more aimless wandering, we finally located the Ladbroke Grove Underground Station. At this point, we were exhausted. Luckily we were able to catch the Hammersmith & City line all the way back to the Euston Square Station, which was only a few blocks from the hotel. This trip took about half an hour, which combined with our forty minute hike through the streets of Notting Hill, was not quite as quick as our other route. Also, the train became packed at the Baker Street exit with mostly businessman making their way home. By the way, the carnival takes place on several of the streets of the Notting Hill area, so we did find it… a couple of times.

More information about the Notting Hill Carnival at: http://www.thenottinghillcarnival.com/