Although I have blogged, to some extent, about most academic things I have done in London, I feel that I have a better impression of most things now than I did at the beginning of the stay. Along this vein, I feel the need to revise, or just plain state, my opinions on the “Big Five” topics – parks, churches, museums, theatres, and pubs.
I have now been to five of the Royal Parks in London. Green Park, Kensington Gardens, Hyde Park, Regent’s Park, and St James’ Park are all very similar and yet very different in their own ways. I found Green Park, situated very close to Buckingham Palace, to have the most unfriendly atmosphere of the five. There is very little to Green Park. There are trees, benches, grass, the ever-popular lawn chairs for rent, and beautiful ornate gates facing Buckingham Palace. I think the reason I found the park so cold is that it was, well, too green. There were no flowers or water features (except for one fountain commemorating the Canadians), just trees, grass, and benches.
This is vastly different from the other four parks I visited. St James’ Park, Hyde Park, Regent’s Park, and Kensington Gardens all were beautifully landscaped with brightly colored flowers, clean fountains, scultpures, and natural or constructed water features. In Hyde Park, Regent’s Park, and Kensington Gardens it was easy to forget that you were in the middle of a pollution-filled city. As I am not much of a city person, it was extremely refreshing for me to not be able to hear or see traffic for a while. With Green Park and St James’ Park, I couldn’t shake that feeling. However, I am a firm believer that parks, whether or not they are within city limits, always make people feel healthier. For this reason and the sheer beauty that the parks portrayed in their different ways, I understand why I did not only see tourists, but the people of London as well.
Gates towards Buckingham Palace from Green Park
Churches and other places of worship are an integral part of societies throughout the world. Throughout our time in London, we have been fortunate enough to visit Westminster Abbey, St Paul’s Cathedral, a Sikh gurdwara, and a Hindu temple. Of these four I enjoyed St Paul’s Cathedral the most from a purely historical standpoint and the Hindu temple most from a cultural perspective. St. Paul’s is one of the most recognizable and interesting buildings in London. It not only houses some of the most important military remains in the country (the Duke of Wellington and Admiral Nelson), but it was one of the most iconic images of WWII Britain. I also found it to be less like a museum where I felt like hop-scotching around graves in the floor (Westminster Abbey) and much more like a place of worship.
I enjoyed the Hindu temple for very different reasons. Although there was a definite sense of it being a tourist attraction, with the gift shop in the lobby and the interpretive centre with tiny models of Hindu gods, the temple was still very obviously, well, a temple. Before going there, I had no idea what Hinduism was like. I knew that there are multiple gods and that one is an elephant, but I didn’t know about their dedication to peace and volunteer work. What really struck me about it was that the intricate carving and craftsmanship of the facility was all done by volunteers. I think that this cultural experience was only heightened by being able to observe a service in the sanctuary that was so unlike my own Roman Catholic faith.
St Paul's Cathedral - a symbol and a place of worship
I had very mixed experiences with museums in London. Some, like the Victoria and Albert, I just didn’t seem to understand in the amount of time I spent there. However, I think that if I went back and dedicated a day to the facility, I would appreciate how the seemingly-random exhibits link together much better. (I did enjoy the items on display in the V&A, I just had an issue with the layout of the museum.) Other museums, like the Museum of London and the Docklands Museum, were put together in a very fluid and informative manner that I enjoyed greatly. My two biggest museum issues were with the British Museum and Sir John Soane’s Home/Museum. Grace and I wrote extensively on our thoughts on the British Museum, so instead of repeating everything, I’ll just give a brief summary: why are all of these amazing artifacts that have no connection to Britain in the British Museum?
The Sir John Soane Museum is a completely different story. I appreciated that the museum was free and displayed an extremely eclectic collection, but please never make me go back there ever again! It was the single most claustrophobic place I have ever been in my entire life with possibly one exception. Call it a personal thing, I do not like it when random pieces of monuments are mounted on the ceiling directly above my head. I am also not a big fan of walking into a room in a house and having literally hundreds of sculpture eyes staring at me from every surface around me. I disliked it so much that I could not even finish going through it, and anyone who has been in a museum with me will know that I read and see as much as I possibly can. I don’t understand why that creepy building perfectly-suited to be a haunted house at Halloween is called a museum. (Please if you can attempt to explain it to me, go right ahead!)
Theatre is a subject I have talked about in a couple of different posts (Observations on Accessibility and Blood Painters and Pitmen Brothers), however, I have not discussed theatre in general. I was lucky enough to see Troilus and Cressida, All’s Well That Ends Well, Arcadia, The Pitmen Painters, and Blood Brothers. Each of these theatre experiences were extremely different, but all valuable in their own ways. Troilus and Cressidawas shown in the Globe Theatre and we had groundling tickets that forced us to stand for the 3 hour performance. The actual standing wasn’t nearly as bad as I thought it would be, but the best thing about the show was being quite literally three-to-four feet away from the actors on stage. (Actually, it was slightly amusing when Hector died and was lying 3 feet away in our line of sight for the last 20 minutes of the play!) The staging of this Shakespearian play was vastly different to All’s Well That Ends Well, which was put on in the National Theatre. In the Globe, the sets are quite minimal because they have to perform four or five different shows on the same stage in the space of a few days. The set for All’s Well That Ends Well was much more elaborate and specialized for the show. Rather than the reliance on the actors and the costumes that the Globe used to tell you where the play was occurring, All’s Well That Ends Well used a dark set with elaborate staircases to add to the mood of characters and the dialogue.
Much like with Troilus and Cressida, the set for Arcadia was also pretty simple. Although the play took place in two different years, it was set in exactly the same room with almost all of the same props. This was a very effective way to stage the show and allowed for the writer, Tom Stoppard, to do some very interesting things with the characters from both time periods, like when he had them all in the room at the same time, oblivious to each other. I particularly enjoyed the way that this play was set and how basic it was. It was vastly different from the more complicated sets of The Pitmen Painters, which included projection screens, and Blood Brothers, which had lots of windows for the Devil/God character to peer creepily out of.
This final subject I have not blogged about at all. Pubs are an integral part of British culture. That said, pubs are also an integral part of Irish culture, so I experienced pub life when I lived in Ireland. British pubs and Irish pubs have a lot of similarities and differences. In both places, you must push viciously up to the bar in order to get your food and drink, you have to be 18 to have alcohol, smoking must be done outside, and there are usually way too many people in the pub for you to feel comfortable. Oh, and you always pay way more than you think you should for your drink. I’ve been to a couple of pubs in London and have found that they are all fairly similar. The bartenders are nice, but kind of frantic; the food is good, and usually relatively cheap; and the music is God-awful 1980s or techno playing at volumes that are way too loud. The first two are cohesive with pretty well every Irish pub I’ve ever been in, the third is not. Irish pubs play good music… or at least much better music than I’ve heard here! There are a lot of pubs that have a band playing traditional Irish music in front of you in the pub for pints and there are also a lot that play modern music at volumes that make my ears want to cry – but at least the music isn’t a Cher and Meatloaf duet accompanied with the weirdest music video I have ever seen in my entire life. (This particular musical masterpiece was played in The Court the other day. I never would have thought of that particular combination, but oooooookkkkkkkkkk.) Truth be told, I just want to find a comfortable pub with some good music and that will make me just as happy as George Orwell’s fictitious Moon Under Water.
