My tips, tricks, and favorite things in Vienna, Austria

Meghan Straub

All pictures: Meghan Straub

Vienna has quickly become one of my favorite places in the world. I had the wonderful opportunity of living in Vienna for a month while completing my intensive course before coming to Bremen. It was an amazing month filled with travel, history, music, and ice cream. I had such a great time that it was hard for me to pack up my things and leave to start the program in Bremen. Little did I know it then but I would return to my European home of Vienna 2 more times this year (once with my parents and once with the program). As part of the Dickinson in Bremen program we have the opportunity to go on a weeklong excursion to Vienna. We spend the week learning about the history of the city as well as experiencing all of the many facets of culture Vienna has to offer. In this blog I’d like to share some of my favorite moments from the excursion as well as some of my tips as someone who knows Vienna well. But as Julie Andrews says lets start at the very beginning…

1. Stephan’s Cathedral

Located at the very center of the city, St. Stephan’s is the most important building in the whole city. It is an easy navigation point, many of the city’s sites are within a 10-minute walk from its front door, and it is one of the most beautiful churches I’ve ever seen. We got an “All Inclusive” ticket which let us do the audio guided tour of the inside of the cathedral, a tour of the catacombs, an elevator ride to the north tower, and the climb up to the south tower. When I was living in Vienna, I never had the chance to do all of these so I was excited and St. Stephan’s didn’t disappoint. I learned so much about the church from the audio guide and the views from the towers just can’t be beat.

2. The Austrian National Library

Just down the Graben (the pedestrian area at the center of the city) and around the bend is the Hofburg Palace of the Habsburg dynasty and within this gorgeous palace is the National Library. I’d been to the library before, but this time, we had the extremely fortunate opportunity of getting a special tour. We learned all about the care of the books and the history of the building. The best part for me was getting able to see some selected books like a Gutenberg Bible up close and even touch it. My nerdy book-loving soul was close to exploding. The trip to the library was an absolute highlight of our trip for me.

3. Peter’s Church

My favorite place in all of Vienna is St. Peter’s church. Located right off the Graben, St. Peter’s is often overlooked. This church is beautifully decorated and offers free concerts almost every night around 7:30pm. They put out a schedule of the weeks events including concerts by violinists, singers, and most importantly (in my opinion) organists. My favorite thing to do in Vienna is to take a late night walk from the Rathaus through the Volksgarten and the Hofburg all the way to my final stop at St. Peter’s church just in time for the concert. There is something magical about sitting in the candle-lit church as a talented musician plays Bach’s Toccata and Fugue on the organ while the whole building shakes from the sound. I highly recommend stopping by if you get the chance. The price (just a tip for the musicians) can’t be beat.

4. The Vienna State Opera

The city of Vienna is filled with music everywhere you go and the very center of that music is at the state opera house. Located between the Graben and the Ringstraße, the Vienna State Opera is housing performances every night including ballets and of course Operas. As a famous attraction in Vienna, the ticket for the Opera can be quite expensive and often go fast. If you really want to see a performance there you have two options. The first is acquiring a standing room ticket. If you wait outside the building in a line about 80 minutes (or more depending on what show is being performed) before the show you can get a ticket for around 3 euros. Though time consuming and often grueling on hot days, a ticket for that price is hard to pass up. Another option is the large screen outside of the opera house on Kartnerstraße. A couple nights a week the opera displays the performance of the night outside free to the public on a large screen. People bring chairs and blankets to sit outside and enjoy the good weather and beautiful voices for free. If you, like me, aren’t that interested in hearing the voices of the world’s best singers and are more interested in seeing what the inside of the opera house looks like tours are also provided during the day. For about 4 euros (with a student discount) you can go on a tour of the interior of the building and learn all about how the shows are organized and the long history and tradition of opera in Vienna. I highly recommend.

5. The Prater

Right outside of the inner city of Vienna is the Prater. Founded in 1766, the Prater is essentially an amusement park. The park is open from 10am until 1am and housing tons of restaurants as well as rides. The most famous of which is the Wiener Riesenrad or Ferris wheel. The wheel is 212 feet tall and is famous for its appearance in the movie The Third Man. My favorite ride is not the famous Ferris wheel but rather the tower swings. The Prater Tower is 117m high and offers a breathtaking view of the whole city. If you are afraid of heights it will likely be too much for you but otherwise it is a great way to see the whole city for only 5 euros.

I hope that these tips/suggestions help you to get the most out of your visit to Vienna if you get the opportunity to go. If you do, I hope you enjoy it as much as I have this past year. Ciao!

Art exhibition along the city wall of Kraków.

Kraków Old Town

Our Dickinson-in-Poland excursion was very diverse and well-planned. The schedule provided us with friendly and knowledgable Polish tour guides who made sure we were not walking through the old and historical cities without knowing what we were walking past. I found the group walking tour of Krakow to be especially interesting and also helpful. Thanks to the tour, we were given a good overview of the different areas of Krakow and we never needed to use a map in order to refind those places to which we wanted to return. Despite trekking through the one day of not-so-great weather, the tour introduced us to the most beautiful and most historical of Krakow and I enjoyed every minute. Ultimately, despite having spent only a few days there, I felt as though I received a good sense of how the city was shaped by hundreds of years of history and tradition, an understanding that cannot be neglected if one is to really feel as though any foreign city has become a temporary home. >Carol Rynar ‘ 17<

The Wawel Castle

One of the highlights of this excursion was the beautiful, historic centrum of Kraków, the Old Town Market Square or Rynek Główny. One of the largest historic market squares in Europe, the unique and lovely spot contains an underground archeological museum, the ornate and awe-inspiring St. Mary’s Basilica, a line of shops and carriages, hundreds of flocking pigeons, and the Jagiellonian University class where we had our interesting lecture series. We were especially lucky to experience this vibrant city around Easter with a charming Easter and spring-themed market on the main square. >Helen Schlimm ‘ 17<

Gdansk

One of our first days in Poland, we visited the city of Gdansk, which involved a three-hour train ride from Warsaw; a far but worthwhile journey. We met with our tour guide outside the train station, who led us towards the shipyards where the Solidarity movement grew its roots. We walked under the gate where Lech Walesa shared the news that a deal had been made with the communist government in 1980. We entered the museum to learn of the events that led up to that critical moment. Through interactive dioramas, props and photographs, we learned about the struggle against communism and martial law and the numerous political uprisings that took place because of that struggle. We saw the original 21 demands of the 1980 shipyard demonstration handwritten on old plywood, which led to the creation of the first trade union. I learned a lot about Polish history and am really appreciative of the opportunity to have seen this great historical city. >Phoebe Allebach ‘ 17<

The famous Gate No. 2 at the Gdansk Shipyard.

Schönbrunn – Sehr schön indeed!

From left to right: Ira, Phoebe, Carol, Helen, Janine Ludwig

We were really lucky to experience the Schönbrunn Palace on the sunniest day of our excursion! Only a twenty-minute train ride outside the city center, this absolutely stunning palace and gardens really lives up to its name with an unbelievable self-guided tour through the regal halls and rooms of the summer home of the Hapsburg Emperors and Empresses, most notably Maria Theresia and Elisabeth “Sissi”. From finely enameled wallpaper and portraits to bejeweled mirrors, chandeliers and furniture it was really exciting to experience the wealth of the empire and imagine living in a time where one might actually attend a ball in the great hall. The gardens and grounds were also gorgeous and provided an awesome view of the city from the short hike up the hill! >Helen Schlimm<

Schönbrunn Gardens: Ira Lauer, Helen Schlimm, Carol Rynar, Phoebe Allebach (from left to right)

The National Library

One of my favorite experiences on this trip was our visit to the national library. Thanks to our program, we were given this unique opportunity that we would not have otherwise had, had we just visited on our own. (It was incredibly satisfying to be ushered behind a red velvet rope to an off-limits section of the library for a closer look at the books while normal tourists watched jealously on.) We were given a private tour by a very knowledgeable and friendly professor, who gave us a thorough history of the library building as well as of the books. We began outside the doors with a description of the library’s impressive exterior before we headed up the Stiege (a new regional German word was learned on the way up the stairs) and I was able to use the same key Maria Theresa used during the 18^th Century to open the large library door into one of the most beautiful and priceless rooms I have ever seen.

Students looking at an original Luther bible from the 16th century, adorned with paintings from Lucas Cranach the Elder!

We learned how to read a bit of the symbolism painted on the impressive ceiling fresco before we had the opportunity to actually read (and handle!) two texts from the Habsburg collection from the 16^th Century. Vienna is a city full of history, that fact can be grasped easily enough just by walking down the street, but to actually hold in your hands a document so incredibly old and so carefully cared for helped me to appreciate how valuable such history is and how concerned Vienna is with conserving it. From the Schatzkammer to the Kunsthistorisches Museum even to the Kaisergruft, it is obvious the Habsburgs liked to collect priceless artefacts, but I think it is safe to say that the Nationalbibliothek contained Vienna’s most impressive collection. >Carol Rynar<

One of the best experiences of my time in Vienna was our city tour. Vienna is such an old and beautiful city with nearly 1000 years of history. Walking through the city’s streets lined with architecture from Baroque to Art Nouveau was out of the world and will be a life-long memory. >Ira Lauer<

Academic substance

The broader theme of this excursion is German-Austrian history and culture from the middle ages until today. In three introductury lectures, I lead the students back to the origins of what is “German,” (an umbrella term coined by Tacitus) and why we are named after different tribes in other languages, like “Allemannen”, a.k.a. Swabians or “Deutsch,” stemming from “theodisk” which actually means belonging to the people / folk-like. From the defeat of the Romans in the Battle of the Teutoburg Forest through the migration period, we follow the emergence of the Holy Roman Empire of the German Nation, from Charles the Great (800) to its dissolution after the Napoleonic conquests (1806) using historic maps and documentaries. At the same time, we track the rise of the Habsburg dynasty from 1273 until 1918 and the overlapping of the Austro-Hungarian k.u.k Monarchy, later the Austrian Empire (1804-1918) with the German Empire (1871-1918). Backed up with this information, the students can better understand the museum exhibits and grasp the importance of Vienna as a former political and cultural center of Europe. And additionally, we indulge in the imperial glamour and the culinary abundance of this beautiful city. >Dr. Janine Ludwig<

Meeting with Hans Modrow

Our Berlin excursion began with the exciting and unique experience to meet the last Premier, or Chairman of the Council of Ministers, of the German Democratic Republic (East Germany), Hans Modrow! Herr Modrow’s fascinating history includes living through four different political and social regime changes in Germany, and he is currently the honorary Chairman of die Linke Party (the Left). Most fitting to our theme of German Reunification was his detailed description and explanation of the political transition in East Germany from the fall of the Berlin Wall on November 9^th, 1989 to official reunification, nearly a year later, on October 3^rd, 1990. We asked questions about his involvement and opinions on this time and the time since for the better part of three hours. In turn, we received a very interesting perspective from the side of the GDR, a typically lesser known part of recent German history than the West. >Helen Schlimm<

From left to right: Verena Mertz, Janine Ludwig, Ira, Carol, Hans Modrow, Phoebe, Helen. © Frank Schumann

As part of our Berlin trip, we got to meet several political figures from the former German Democratic Republic. We met with Hans Modrow, who was the second last leader of the GDR. We had a long discussion about life, politics of East Germany and the fall of the Berlin Wall. He painted a picture of how the integration of East Germany into the West could have gone and how things would be different for it. Later in the week we had the opportunity to meet member of the Bundestag, Gregor Gysi, who is a leader in the Left party in the Bundestag. With him, we also discussed East Germany and the fall of the Berlin wall. We also learned about the current political climate surrounding the former GDR, such as the debate about whether or not the GDR was a nation built upon the rule of law. From both of these meetings with influential political figures, we gained a much deeper understanding of the politics that surrounded the fall of the Berlin Wall and the ramifications of German unity. >Ira Lauer<

Left: Dr. Gregor Gysi. From front: Janine Ludwig, Helen, Carol, Ira, Phoebe.  © Verena Mertz

Meeting at the Federal Foreign Office (Auswärtiges Amt)

Our group also got the fascinating chance to meet with a member of the Transatlantic Coordinator’s Office at the Federal Foreign Office! We were lead through a tour of the unique space that was also the National Bank for the Third Reich and the Central Seat of the Socialist Unity Party of East Germany, take (unofficial) press photos, and even got to ride on a Paternoster lift! We had a lively talk and discussion of our questions relating to the American-German relationship in the past, present and future. Themes included the Office’s strategies to inform more Americans and Germans of their program and the importance of the relationship between the two countries, the upcoming presidential elections in the US, and stereotypes of both cultures and how or if they can be changed in the future. It was an extremely interesting meeting and tied in very nicely with our class this semester taught by Janine: Kultur heißt Vergleichen- USA/Deutschland. >Helen Schlimm<

Julian Assange & the BStU

When I first learned that a mass Skype-call with founder of WikiLeaks Julian Assange was on the schedule for the day, I had two initial reactions: firstly, one of excitement that I was to be given an opportunity to be in attendance during a critical contemporary dialogue led by one of the most influential whistle-blowers of the modern age, but secondly one of surprise as well. After speaking with two relevant German political icons earlier that day, the last communist premier of East Germany, Hans Modrow, and the last leader of the Socialist Unity Party (SED) in East Germany, Gregor Gysi, I was curious to see how listening to the ideas of an Australian journalist would fit with our excursion’s overall theme of the division and unification of East and West Germany. What this Skype event quickly helped me to realize, however, was that there really is an incredible amount of thematic overlap with what is happening in the world today and what was happening behind the Wall not too long ago, particularly concerning the right to access information, the notion of privacy, and the necessity of recognizing and spreading the truth. These ideas constituted the theme of the night’s conversation with Assange, titled “The End of Democracy.”

Julian Assange warned us in his speech against the power of technology and of the unchallenged authority of the Silicon Valley. He told us of Google’s geopolitical aspirations, of its closely-established relationship with the United States government, and of its frighteningly-powerful surveillances capabilities. He called us to arms in the fight for justice for a world of clarity and truth, to expose the reality that we are living behind our own virtual “Wall,” while being watched by our own kind of Stasi, an overlord we ourselves have chosen and support both through our dependency on technology and our compliancy to resist the implementation of a severely-limited sense of freedom in today’s world. These ideas were still fresh in my mind when the Dickinson group visited the BStU (Official German Stasi Archive) the next day. >Carol Rynar<

We went to Hohenschönhausen in Berlin, the former prison for the East German Ministry of State Security, the Stasi. A former prisoner, who had an amazing and moving story of imprisonment, gave us a tour. We saw rooms where prisoners stayed which were comprised of a wooden bunk and a bucket for a toilet. We saw a reproduction of a Chinese torture apparatus, in which water was slowly dripped on the person’s forehead for an indefinite amount of time. I was surprised to hear that 90% of the prisoners in Hohenschönhausen were innocent of the so-called crimes they committed. Our tour guide was imprisoned for helping others escape over the wall. The second time he tried himself to escape, he was captured. His best friend was shot and killed. He was put in solitary confinement for 3 years. When he was released, he continued to help people escape into the West. Because of his intense, life-long fight against oppression, he isolated his wife and children, leading to a long estrangement. He told us this with a shaking voice and teary eyes. At this point, the language barrier didn’t matter. I could see and sense his pain, but could only imagine how much he hurts. I couldn’t help but wonder how difficult it must be for him to walk through the halls of the prison daily. Has he numbed himself to the painful physical and emotional memories? Or perhaps in informing others of his difficult plight, he is given strength; there is a renewed purpose to what happened. The tour through Hohenschönhausen was a moving experience and I learned a lot. I would definitely recommend a visit.

During our free time, Helen, Carol and I went to the Museumsinsel and visted the Alte Nationalgalerie (Old National Gallery), which presents a collection of 19^th century art. We saw pieces by Adolph von Menzel, Claude Monet, Max Liebermann, Auguste Renoir and our personal favorite, Caspar David Friedrich. It was really cool to see art that we studied in “German Cultures!” The museum itself was stunning, modeled after the Acropolis of Athens. Afterwards, we walked over to the Berliner Dom and for an afternoon, we enjoyed being surrounded by beautiful architecture. >Phoebe Allebach<

From left to right: Janine Ludwig, Carol, Phoebe, Ira, Helen, Verena Mertz

During our trip to Poland I particularly enjoyed visiting the Krakow Easter Market. Luckily the hotel in which we were staying was located right in the heart of the city and just 1 block away from the central market, which was an amazing place to spend time after the group activities and try some of the local foods such as pierogis, kielbasas and kolaches. The timing of our trip also matched “Palm Sunday” which is a locally celebrated event in which neighboring towns submit tall and colorful “palms” to compete for the highest one. All in all it was a lot of fun and a very nice place to walk around and relax.

Regarding the educative aspect of the trip, I would say that the experience that stuck with me the most was the visit to concentration camps of Auschwitz; a terrible place that should be visited by anybody who has the opportunity regardless of religion or nationality and a cornerstone in humanities capability for atrocity. Since my education in a Jewish high-school, visiting Auschwitz in order to witness and preserve the memory of what happened to the European Jewish communities during the Nazi regime has been one of the most imprinted targets of my education. In multiple previous conferences and chats arranged by my high-school I also had the opportunity to meet some of the few remaining survivors of the concentration camps and listen to their stories, and now this trip to Auschwitz allowed me to put a face to the place that their stories mentioned.

However, I must say that I was in a certain way disappointed. Disappointed because even though the exhibitions show what the darkest moments of humanity accomplished, the experience was much less horrifying than what I had always imagined it to be. There was nothing ominous about the geographic place itself. The grass was green and there were no black clouds of death surrounding the buildings. Had it not been for the dreadful exhibitions, informative billboards and the guide’s explanations, one could have passed without realizing the horrors the buildings hid. This dissipated my preconception of inherent evil associated to the places where the Nazi regime acted, perhaps aligning me with the observations made by Hannah Arendt, which pointed out that it is even in the ordinary places where monstrosities can occur. >Santiago<

I really enjoyed our time in Krakow. I was surprised by the strong and colorful personality of the city and all of the welcoming people who we met there. Every spot was so picturesque and unspoiled by modern day tourism. It was also very neat to learn about different aspects of Poland’s history, culture, and economy from Polish professors in Poland. Being back in lectures filled with other Dickinson students almost made me feel back at home again! It was also great having George there with us; it was almost like having a personal tour guide everywhere we went, since he was always able to provide us with pieces of information that we otherwise would not have known.

This excursion had me thinking bigger than just the United States, Germany, or Poland: in today’s global economy, the actions of one state can have drastic effects on another and it is important to be aware of the benefits and consequences of international relations. >Madison<

I became interested in Poland’s history this summer, when I spent the night in Krosno Odrzańskie in July this past summer. My interest was heightened when I was visiting a friend in Switzerland, whose mother comes from Poland. She talked a little about how she met her husband, and how hard it was to live in a communist system. Since then I have wanted to learn a little more about Polish history, but I had not really had the chance, and therefore, I was quite excited for our Dickinson excursion to Poland.

I was really pleased with the program, especially in Krakow. I think the most beneficial part of the excursion was the opportunity to meet and talk with polish students from the Jagiellonian University. I met up with the students multiple times after our dinner with them on the first night in Krakow. Through the students I got to see polish culture from a different perspective, and I learned a little more about what daily life is like in Poland for members of my own generation. I think what really struck me, was that the dreams and aspirations of the Polish students are very similar to those of American and German students, despite the differences in economy and historical background.

I also really enjoyed the Underground Museum in Krakow. The museum is very well done, and I think it really took the ideas we had been learning about in our lectures and made them come to life. It is rare to find a well done interactive museum that is not explicitly made for children. The POLIN Museum in Warsaw as well done too. I gained a lot of knowledge from our tour and think it would be worth visiting again to go through slower on my own, if I am ever back in Warsaw.  In the end the excursion to Poland really was a valuable experience. I learned so much about the history, economics and culture that I have a much better appreciation for Poland. I think just being able to spend time in Krakow alone made the trip worth it. It is a beautiful city. >Adrienne<

One of my favorite things about Poland was meeting the American Studies students in Krakow and spending time with them. As someone who is interested in languages (I had tried to decipher the Sky Mall magazines on the plane which were in both English and Polish) I wanted to have a chance to learn new Polish phrases and pronunciations from native speakers. For example, there is a Polish letter that looks like an “l” with a line through it! (It’s pronounced like an English “w”). The American Studies students from the University of Krakow also knew which food and restaurants were the best! We had a great time discussing US trivia and history and learning more about Poland while eating Perogies. It was an excellent example of students engaging in a cultural exchange and learning more about each other’s countries.

I thought the Poland program was interesting, because as a German major, understanding the history and culture of the countries which border on Germany is just as important as understanding the history and culture of Germany itself. Therefore, I enjoyed many of the lectures about Polish history, economics, and politics. My favorite speaker was the “Alphabet of Poland” professor. He decided to go through Polish history using an A… B… C… etc. approach rather than the traditional approach of chronological order. I also enjoyed how the Poland trip allowed the Dickinson students abroad in Germany to connect with the other Dickinson students in Italy. It was also interesting for me to compare the experiences of being abroad in Germany vs. in Italy. I would suggest more trips which allow different Dickinson abroad groups to connect— I was also able to spend time with students that I did not yet know very well at Dickinson College. >Ezra<

My favorite part of the Poland Excursion was the choir concert we attended of the high schoolers from Krakow and Germantown, PA. They were both very talented groups and the music program was great, but I especially loved at the end how both the groups and their history were explained by the school directors. It was nice to see other students of an even younger age getting to experience the culture and friendship of people from another country, especially Poland. I am also grateful to have learned so much about a country that I originally didn’t have too much knowledge on. It was a nice contrast learning intellectually about Poland in the lectures while also getting to see the two major cities of Krakow and Warsaw, whether it be by walking around, museums, or bus tours. Overall it opened my eyes to yet another country of Europe, and it turned out to be one of my favorites.  I can’t wait to go back. >Cassie<

Our excursion to Poland consisted of many lectures, tours of Krakow and Warsaw, and many delicious meals. The two lectures I found most interesting were entitled; “From Communist to Solidarity and Further” and “Church and the State in Poland.” Poland has a rich history and relationship with the USA, Germany, and Russia and this lecture explored this history as well as Poland’s current role in international affairs. I also found it interesting to compare everyday life in communist Poland with that in the DDR. In the second lecture I learned that 80-90% of Poles, depending on the poll, identify themselves as Christian and how this is reflected in Government policy.

Personally, I found the visitation of Auschwitz I and Auschwitz II-Birkenau to be the most compelling and I find myself very fortunate to learn about this piece of world history. >George<

On our excision to Poland I was very surprised by the city of Krakow. I never would have imagined how beautiful and alive it would be. It was very interesting to witness their easter celebrations and markets, as they were not present in Bremen. The culture was very warm with people performing every day in the market square, whether it was break dancers, musicians, or people blowing huge bubbles entertaining swarms of children. The lectures at the beginning of the excursion helped with all the future museum visits and documentaries. I was embarrassed by how little Polish history I knew before this excursion, but I feel like I came out of it with a basic understanding. I never knew how deep Poland’s connections with America were. I really enjoyed how it seemed like at every new exhibit or lecture there was not only Polish and American but also German and Italian history involved. I was very impacted by the visit to Auschwitz and Birkenau, especially as a German Studies major, World War II is almost always a part of our curriculum, but it’s a much more emotional and real experience that’s hard to achieve without physically being there. >Katie<

I was most entranced by any of the events that taught our group the long and complex history of Krakow, the two most interesting being the city tour and the visit to the Rynek Underground museum of Krakow. For me, going out into the city and being able to gaze at the buildings while hearing their history, or see an elaborate exhibit that transports a person back in time with the sights and sounds of medieval times, allowed me to experience history in an almost tangible way. On the city tour, we not only heard about dates and historical figures, but above all stories, the words that I live for and drive the heartbeat of the city. It is one thing to see the magnificent St. Mary’s Basilica on the town square and discuss the complex history of the church’s role in Polish history, which we did frequently during our trip. However, to hear the tragic story of the brothers who supposedly built the church allowed me a glimpse into the beautiful narrative of the city. Among the many treasures of the Rynek Underground, four meters underground and at the same level as the original town market place, was the initiative of the museum to preserve these stories for the next generation. In this extremely interactive museum there are undisturbed sections of rock left purposefully to be excavated by the next generation of archeologists. So while the entire trip was fascinating and exciting for me, exposing me to new sights, tastes, languages and people, it was these stories that are collected and preserved by the citizens of Krakow that I felt most honored to be a part of. The Poland excursion was a whirlwind of new places and information, that above all exposed me to a section of history and the part of the world I would have not gotten the chance to see. >Rachel<

In the second part of our Vienna Blog, read about the Wiener Schatzkammer, the Marionette Theater and a performance of Mozart’s Magic Flute, the Sisi Museum, and the Albertina.

Wiener Schatzkammer
by Ezra Sassaman

One part of Vienna which I enjoyed immensely was the treasure chamber, or Schatzkammer. This is one area in which the United States does not offer much: back at home for me, it would be impossible to find this amount of royal adornments or anything at all from this far into history. The treasures in the rooms were like something I had only ever seen in books or movies and I couldn’t believe they were real at first—I felt like I was in the storage room of a theater.
Included in the cache were huge portraits of former Austrian royalty, the Habsburgers, resplendent garments, bejeweled crowns and swords, and even some things I had never imagined, like a much too intricate cradle for a baby Habsburger and an amazing pitcher for the official baptism of royalty. Among the portraits was a painting of Maria Louise, one of Napoleon’s wives. Of course, we hear about Napoleon, but I have the feeling I did not fully grasp that he was a real person—it had always seemed like a story from the past that we did not have much connection to in the present. In the Schatzkammer, however, seeing these portraits and treasures which belonged to these people from so long ago was simply different than seeing pictures or reading about historical events—these figures of history began to come to life for me.

Kaiser Ezra I.

Toward the end of the tour, I needed to ask a question. We often see criminal masterminds trying to break into exhibits like the Schatzkammer in shows like “Sherlock” or movies like “National Treasure.” I asked the tour guide what kind of security measures the Schatzkammer used, and if there had been any attempts to steal the priceless treasures. “Well, of course I can’t tell you exactly what kind of security we use” laughed the tour guide—“are you trying to steal something?” She said that there had been no break-in attempts at the Schatzkammer, but a painting had been stolen from a neighboring museum during construction. The thief had tried to blackmail the museum, but they caught him.

Magic Flute Marionette Theater at Schönbrunn Palace
by Santiago Princ

During our excursion to Vienna we were taken to multiple theater plays and different kind of performances, one of them being a rare Marionette depiction of “The Magic Flute” (“Die Zauberflöte” in German); a two-act opera by Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart. What I found most remarkable about the experience was the amazingly honed skill that the puppeteers had to control the marionettes. This play normally performed by human beings lacked no fluidity or expression while being performed by the stringed dolls. The movements of the dolls were perfectly synchronized with their dialogs, every scene flowed smoothly and the fact that these were puppets being controlled instead of humans made “special effects” such as Papageno quasi-flying great addition to the play’s fantasy. We were also given some insights on the art of puppeteering. According to the professionals in the theater every single action of the puppet such as walking, waving or striking a pose can take years to master, and becoming proficient at puppeteering can be as demanding as becoming a professional instrument player. During the intermission we could also see how the design and making process of the marionettes develops and after the play we were invited by the puppeteers to see how they operate from behind the scenes. I found this to be a very peculiar and hilarious experience!

Photo from https://www.marionettentheater.at/aktuelles.html

Sisi Museum
by Cassandra Blyler

A few of us chose to visit the Sisi Museum, which is located in part of the Hofburg Palace. The museum was organized into two sections; the first being a collection of silverware, plates, and other household items made specifically for the Habsburgs. I found this part of the museum to be impressive due to the sheer quantity of various items; for example a collection of 200 golden plates only occupied a tiny section. The second half of the museum was dedicated to the life of Empress Elizabeth (Sisi) who was married to Franz Joseph I. This part of the museum was very interesting because it provided us with so much information about Sisi’s personal life. It included excerpts of poems she had written, along with dresses and other articles of clothing she had worn in private. I was amazed by the circumference of her waist and the corsets used to further exaggerate its smallness. It was also noteworthy to see the highly popularized paintings of Sisi in their original form. It was interesting to hear about the daily-life struggles of someone in the royal family; those makes her more relatable, especially with her depression following the suicide of her son.

Albertina
by George DeRosa

“For about six hours, entranced, S. A. Powers had watched thousands of Picasso paintings replace one another at flashcut speed, and then he had been treated to Paul Klees, more than the painter had painted during his entire lifetime. S. A. Powers, now viewing Modigliani paintings replace themselves at furious velocity, had conjectured (one needs a theory for everything) that the Rosicrucians were telepathically beaming pictures at him, probably boosted by microrelay systems of an advanced order; but then, when Kandinsky paintings began to harass him, he recalled that the main art museum at Leningrad specialized in just such nonobjective moderns, and decided that the Soviets were attempting telepathically to contact him.”

After four days of travelling around Vienna, coffee was no longer a tasty pick-me-up but rather a necessity. After touring the Belvedere Palace and Museum, the rest of the afternoon was free and I eagerly retraced my steps through the city towards my bed. Along the way, I was remarking to myself how odd it is seeing buildings and cathedrals from the 12th century directly across the street from ultra-modern boutiques selling handbags and skin creams but sleep was the only relevant thought on my mind. As I pulled the door handle of the hotel expecting entrance into my own personal nirvana I was snapped back into reality when the door wouldn’t budge. I was locked out. Santiago had the keys. Scheiße. With no means of contacting Santiago, I quickly surveyed my options and did the only rational thing left to do: I took the nearest subway in a completely random direction. Upon exiting the subway, I found myself in Schillerplatz and the accompanying park memorializing the life of German poet, philosopher, historian, and playwright Friedrich Schiller. After a tour around the park I found myself outside of the Albertina Museum and decided to view their exhibitions.
That lovely excerpt from Phillip K. Dick’s, A Scanner Darkly, was my first exposure to what would be considered “High Art” and whether it was Synchronicity, the Russians, or the fact that the Albertina Museum is home to over 1,000,000 prints and over 65,000 drawings (one needs a theory for everything), I was pleased to find that one of the first paintings I had chosen to spend time with, upon further inspection, was Amedeo Modigliani’s Young Woman in a Blue Shirt. Seeing Modigliani’s name conjured up memories of that particular passage from Dick’s text and gave me a sense of familiarity and connectedness in a completely foreign city and country. After spending another 10 minutes trying to unlock the secrets hidden behind her solid blue eyes I moved on to the rest of the museum. I was greeted by works of artists with familiar names such as Monet, Picasso, Kandinsky, and works by artists less familiar to me such as Redon, Delvaux, and Giacometti. The Albertina is one of my fondest memories of Vienna not only because of the events leading up to it but also because after leaving I felt ever slightly more cultured.

From March 1 to March 6, the Dickinson-in-Bremen program traveled yet again to beautiful Vienna. The current group of students all wrote about their respective favorite activity. In Part I, read about the Austrian National Library, Modern Art in Vienna, The Hundertwasser Haus, and a theater performance we saw during the excursion.

The Austrian National Library
by Rachel Schilling

My favorite activity in Vienna, the one where I never stopped bouncing up and down and smiling during the course of it, was visiting the Austrian National Library. On the morning of the third of March the group headed over together to the Hofburg, the palatial complex that was the residence of the Austrian monarchy. While the entirety of Hofburg was beautiful, the library and its connected museums were heaven for a bibliophile like me. We started with a tour in the Prunksaal, the court library founded by Emperor Charles VI that was finished in the 1730s. The Prunksaal contains books from the very beginning of printing in the 1500’s. The library itself was beautiful with grand book shelves and beautiful ceiling frescos. We were shown some old books on flowers and allowed to smell them (for those that love the scent of old books as I do) and were told that we would be allowed , after buying a day library card, to have one of the books pulled from the shelves for us. I especially loved seeing the amazing hidden doorways that the workers use to shelve books and hearing about the current digitizing of the collection.

Rachel reading

We also got the chance to see some of the library’s archived books including some enchanting pop up books and miniature books which I was absolutely obsessed with. We looked at old lesson books which included an alphabet with three different types of S’s. We peeked into the very active current national library and saw the lift system that they use to transport books from the archive to areas where the public can use them.

Later that week, Ezra and I returned to Hofburg to also visit the museums that are a part of the larger library system, namely the Globe Museum and the Esperanto Museum, both extremely unique and interesting museums. The highlight of the Esperanto Museum was the modified Pac Man game that helped us learn a little Esperanto, the language that people once hoped would bring the entire world together under one language. The Globe Museum was fascinating. We were able to catch a glimpse at how people perceived and misperceived the world (including a few maps where California was an island completely detached from the US).  The entirety of the Vienna excursion was beautiful and fun, but getting to see the collections of the National Library was the biggest treat for someone that studies literature.

Modern Art in Vienna
by Adrienne Brown

Vienna, Austria is quite the destination for art enthusiasts. There were more art museums than I could visit in a week, and that is before one even starts to consider the special galleries and smaller art exhibitions. As a part of our Dickinson planned excursion in Vienna we had the opportunity to explore the Kunsthistorisches Museum (Art History Museum) and the Upper Belvedere art museum. Which, between the two of them, showcased some big-name artists like Rubens, Durer, Klimt, and Matisse, among others.

MuseumsQuartier

image source: Nicole Spies – Flicker

While I enjoy all kinds of art, the month I spent living in Berlin turned me into a lover of all things modern and contemporary. So I decided to branch out a bit and visit the MuseumsQuartier in my free time. MuseumsQuartier is located right in the heart of Vienna’s center city and it is far more than a museum. According to Google, MuseumsQuartier is the 8th largest cultural center in the world. It consists of four museums, an institute for modern/ contemporary dance, and a few bars. I had the opportunity to visit two of the art museums at MuseumsQuartier, the Kunsthalle Wien (Art Hall Vienna) and MUMOK. The other museums were, unfortunately, closed the day I went to visit.

Kunsthalle Wien – The Future of Memory

©: Lorenz Seidler – Flicker

The exhibition “The Future of Memory” is a good example of a challenging art exhibit. Some of the installations made me uncomfortable, others forced me to think critically about memory, identity, and technology. The mediums exhibited varied widely. As one entered the space there were sixty watches laid out on the ground in a perfect circle. I learned the hard way that one must pay more attention to the floor in art museums these days. In one corner a baby swing propelled itself back and forth in a never ending rhythm that was more than a little disconcerting. In another corner an empty projector flipped through the slots where the slides should have been. I stood in front of the empty projector for a good while wondering if any sort of image would eventually pop up, and then it dawned on me that the projector was in fact empty. On the back wall of the exhibition films about the connection between memory and identity played over and over.

One of these films was a short documentary about how countries in south-east Europe, such as Croatia, are currently struggling with a disconnect between identity and memory. Due to their recent history, they are disillusioned with their current identity and are trying to create a new one. However, there is a general feeling that they lack the role models necessary to build a new identity. There has been some debate among artists, but currently numerous statutes are being built in tribute to foreign role models such as: Bill Clinton, Rocky and Bruce Lee. Other artists, however, are trying to remain honest and deal with the identity crisis by taking it on rather than running from it.

As one might understand, I needed some time to processes what I had just seen in the Kunsthalle Wien, so I decided to get a coffee and a cupcake in the cupcake cafe. Which may be a shameless plug, but I don’t think any art-complex is complete without a cupcake cafe. Once I digested everything, I was off to go take in some more art. This time at the MUMOK museum, which was featuring the exhibit “Ludwig goes POP!”

“Ludwig goes Pop!”

Santiago

featured some really big names in pop art. Roy Lichtenstein and Andy Warhol mostly, but also a few cool artists that my art professor is obsessed with. The most striking part of this exhibit was just to see those artists we are always hearing about in real life. I mean I’ve seen so many pictures of Warhol’s “Campbell’s Soup”, but seeing a print in real life is kind of magical. It’s also weird to see the little name plate next to Warhol’s name that reads “Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania” and think I came all the way to Vienna, Austria from Carlisle, Pennsylvania and here is art from a Pennsylvania artist… All in all, Vienna was wonderful and I want to go back to visit the other two museums at MuseumsQuartier, among others.

The Hundertwasser Haus
by Katherine Mooradian

My favorite part of the Vienna Excursion was easily the Hundertwasserhaus and Museum. I had seen pictures of his architecture in previous German classes at Dickinson but I never knew that he was also an artist. Not only that but he was a true visionary. I found the experience very inspiring. He has designed four buildings in Vienna, three of which I saw on site, the Hundertwasserhaus, Hundertwasser village, and the KunsthausWien. His last building in Vienna is a heating plant. In his architecture he strives to create a harmony with nature which I found intriguing. All of his houses were filled with plants, a major part of his design was always green roofs, covered in grass or trees. He advocated for more beautiful building styles rejecting stark horizontal and vertical lines, which almost exclusively is found in man made creations.   My favorite part of the museum was the uneven flooring. This technique is found in the majority of Hundertwasser’s architecture. Throughout the museum there were quotes and writings by Hundertwasser which added congruence to his life work on display.

The artist himself has an extremely interesting history and personality. He is known for being an environmental activist and opposed the EU. He advocated for strong individualism and a reconciliation of humans with nature.

“It is disgusting to see what is understood as freedom now. When you stroll through the city you get the feeling that you are walking through a prison: ruler-edged windows, ruler-edged buildings, the people as identical as if they wore prison uniforms. It is a self-made prison. What the people now take to mean freedom is no longer a jail which they are forced into but rather one which they themselves obediently enter. For they have already learned the taboos and prohibitions by heart.” – Real Freedom, 1966

Hundertwasser’s art spoke to me for this reason. He was not afraid to break the rules. He lived for himself, and in realizing his vision he created, and designed practical solutions to real world problems, such as sustainable living communities with his classic green roofs. Furthermore by being free to really express himself, and actualize his dreams he inspires others to do the same.

“Art exists only in an enslaved society like ours. In a free society “art” exists neither as an undersupplied commodity nor as spiritual edification. Art is as omnipresent and natural as the grass and trees, which grows wherever there is water. The attainment of this goal is the artist’s holy commitment. He alone possesses a sure instinct for the coming disaster. And so he simply cannot keep still as he watches the society in which he lives, sink into subjugation.” – Real Freedom, 1966

“Freunde, das Leben ist lebenswert!”
by Madison Alley

Vienna is rich with history. I thoroughly enjoyed our tours through various Habsburg estates, resting places, museums, and treasuries, but the most impacting experience I had during our time there was at a small theater directly next to our hotel. The play we saw is entitled “Freunde, das Leben ist lebenswert!” (Friends, Life is Worth Living!). It follows the lives of a Jewish doctor and poet, Fritz Löhner, and his two Jewish friends, as well as his non-Jewish driver, beginning at the rise of Hitler and ending, as so many lives did, with their respective deaths in a concentration camp. The driver in the story, Prohaska, is an aspiring poet, but lacks the skill that Löhner has with words. Later, Prohaska joins Hitler’s force as a Nazi and becomes famous by forcing Löhner and his friends to write songs for which he takes credit. If I had to describe the play with only one word, it would have to be “shocking”. The brutality with which Jews were treated during this time period is not a surprise; however, seeing these intense situations acted out – in Austria, and in German – left me breathless by the end of the performance. I was constantly surprised throughout the play, taken aback by the bluntness and the very straightforward and heartbreakingly honest way these incredibly sensitive scenes were portrayed.

For whatever reason I was simply not expecting such a dynamic and dramatic representation of the events captured in this play. It was, literally, breathtaking.