Meeting with Hans Modrow

Our Berlin excursion began with the exciting and unique experience to meet the last Premier, or Chairman of the Council of Ministers, of the German Democratic Republic (East Germany), Hans Modrow! Herr Modrow’s fascinating history includes living through four different political and social regime changes in Germany, and he is currently the honorary Chairman of die Linke Party (the Left). Most fitting to our theme of German Reunification was his detailed description and explanation of the political transition in East Germany from the fall of the Berlin Wall on November 9^th, 1989 to official reunification, nearly a year later, on October 3^rd, 1990. We asked questions about his involvement and opinions on this time and the time since for the better part of three hours. In turn, we received a very interesting perspective from the side of the GDR, a typically lesser known part of recent German history than the West. >Helen Schlimm<

From left to right: Verena Mertz, Janine Ludwig, Ira, Carol, Hans Modrow, Phoebe, Helen. © Frank Schumann

As part of our Berlin trip, we got to meet several political figures from the former German Democratic Republic. We met with Hans Modrow, who was the second last leader of the GDR. We had a long discussion about life, politics of East Germany and the fall of the Berlin Wall. He painted a picture of how the integration of East Germany into the West could have gone and how things would be different for it. Later in the week we had the opportunity to meet member of the Bundestag, Gregor Gysi, who is a leader in the Left party in the Bundestag. With him, we also discussed East Germany and the fall of the Berlin wall. We also learned about the current political climate surrounding the former GDR, such as the debate about whether or not the GDR was a nation built upon the rule of law. From both of these meetings with influential political figures, we gained a much deeper understanding of the politics that surrounded the fall of the Berlin Wall and the ramifications of German unity. >Ira Lauer<

Left: Dr. Gregor Gysi. From front: Janine Ludwig, Helen, Carol, Ira, Phoebe.  © Verena Mertz

Meeting at the Federal Foreign Office (Auswärtiges Amt)

Our group also got the fascinating chance to meet with a member of the Transatlantic Coordinator’s Office at the Federal Foreign Office! We were lead through a tour of the unique space that was also the National Bank for the Third Reich and the Central Seat of the Socialist Unity Party of East Germany, take (unofficial) press photos, and even got to ride on a Paternoster lift! We had a lively talk and discussion of our questions relating to the American-German relationship in the past, present and future. Themes included the Office’s strategies to inform more Americans and Germans of their program and the importance of the relationship between the two countries, the upcoming presidential elections in the US, and stereotypes of both cultures and how or if they can be changed in the future. It was an extremely interesting meeting and tied in very nicely with our class this semester taught by Janine: Kultur heißt Vergleichen- USA/Deutschland. >Helen Schlimm<

Julian Assange & the BStU

When I first learned that a mass Skype-call with founder of WikiLeaks Julian Assange was on the schedule for the day, I had two initial reactions: firstly, one of excitement that I was to be given an opportunity to be in attendance during a critical contemporary dialogue led by one of the most influential whistle-blowers of the modern age, but secondly one of surprise as well. After speaking with two relevant German political icons earlier that day, the last communist premier of East Germany, Hans Modrow, and the last leader of the Socialist Unity Party (SED) in East Germany, Gregor Gysi, I was curious to see how listening to the ideas of an Australian journalist would fit with our excursion’s overall theme of the division and unification of East and West Germany. What this Skype event quickly helped me to realize, however, was that there really is an incredible amount of thematic overlap with what is happening in the world today and what was happening behind the Wall not too long ago, particularly concerning the right to access information, the notion of privacy, and the necessity of recognizing and spreading the truth. These ideas constituted the theme of the night’s conversation with Assange, titled “The End of Democracy.”

Julian Assange warned us in his speech against the power of technology and of the unchallenged authority of the Silicon Valley. He told us of Google’s geopolitical aspirations, of its closely-established relationship with the United States government, and of its frighteningly-powerful surveillances capabilities. He called us to arms in the fight for justice for a world of clarity and truth, to expose the reality that we are living behind our own virtual “Wall,” while being watched by our own kind of Stasi, an overlord we ourselves have chosen and support both through our dependency on technology and our compliancy to resist the implementation of a severely-limited sense of freedom in today’s world. These ideas were still fresh in my mind when the Dickinson group visited the BStU (Official German Stasi Archive) the next day. >Carol Rynar<

We went to Hohenschönhausen in Berlin, the former prison for the East German Ministry of State Security, the Stasi. A former prisoner, who had an amazing and moving story of imprisonment, gave us a tour. We saw rooms where prisoners stayed which were comprised of a wooden bunk and a bucket for a toilet. We saw a reproduction of a Chinese torture apparatus, in which water was slowly dripped on the person’s forehead for an indefinite amount of time. I was surprised to hear that 90% of the prisoners in Hohenschönhausen were innocent of the so-called crimes they committed. Our tour guide was imprisoned for helping others escape over the wall. The second time he tried himself to escape, he was captured. His best friend was shot and killed. He was put in solitary confinement for 3 years. When he was released, he continued to help people escape into the West. Because of his intense, life-long fight against oppression, he isolated his wife and children, leading to a long estrangement. He told us this with a shaking voice and teary eyes. At this point, the language barrier didn’t matter. I could see and sense his pain, but could only imagine how much he hurts. I couldn’t help but wonder how difficult it must be for him to walk through the halls of the prison daily. Has he numbed himself to the painful physical and emotional memories? Or perhaps in informing others of his difficult plight, he is given strength; there is a renewed purpose to what happened. The tour through Hohenschönhausen was a moving experience and I learned a lot. I would definitely recommend a visit.

During our free time, Helen, Carol and I went to the Museumsinsel and visted the Alte Nationalgalerie (Old National Gallery), which presents a collection of 19^th century art. We saw pieces by Adolph von Menzel, Claude Monet, Max Liebermann, Auguste Renoir and our personal favorite, Caspar David Friedrich. It was really cool to see art that we studied in “German Cultures!” The museum itself was stunning, modeled after the Acropolis of Athens. Afterwards, we walked over to the Berliner Dom and for an afternoon, we enjoyed being surrounded by beautiful architecture. >Phoebe Allebach<

From left to right: Janine Ludwig, Carol, Phoebe, Ira, Helen, Verena Mertz

During our trip to Poland I particularly enjoyed visiting the Krakow Easter Market. Luckily the hotel in which we were staying was located right in the heart of the city and just 1 block away from the central market, which was an amazing place to spend time after the group activities and try some of the local foods such as pierogis, kielbasas and kolaches. The timing of our trip also matched “Palm Sunday” which is a locally celebrated event in which neighboring towns submit tall and colorful “palms” to compete for the highest one. All in all it was a lot of fun and a very nice place to walk around and relax.

Regarding the educative aspect of the trip, I would say that the experience that stuck with me the most was the visit to concentration camps of Auschwitz; a terrible place that should be visited by anybody who has the opportunity regardless of religion or nationality and a cornerstone in humanities capability for atrocity. Since my education in a Jewish high-school, visiting Auschwitz in order to witness and preserve the memory of what happened to the European Jewish communities during the Nazi regime has been one of the most imprinted targets of my education. In multiple previous conferences and chats arranged by my high-school I also had the opportunity to meet some of the few remaining survivors of the concentration camps and listen to their stories, and now this trip to Auschwitz allowed me to put a face to the place that their stories mentioned.

However, I must say that I was in a certain way disappointed. Disappointed because even though the exhibitions show what the darkest moments of humanity accomplished, the experience was much less horrifying than what I had always imagined it to be. There was nothing ominous about the geographic place itself. The grass was green and there were no black clouds of death surrounding the buildings. Had it not been for the dreadful exhibitions, informative billboards and the guide’s explanations, one could have passed without realizing the horrors the buildings hid. This dissipated my preconception of inherent evil associated to the places where the Nazi regime acted, perhaps aligning me with the observations made by Hannah Arendt, which pointed out that it is even in the ordinary places where monstrosities can occur. >Santiago<

I really enjoyed our time in Krakow. I was surprised by the strong and colorful personality of the city and all of the welcoming people who we met there. Every spot was so picturesque and unspoiled by modern day tourism. It was also very neat to learn about different aspects of Poland’s history, culture, and economy from Polish professors in Poland. Being back in lectures filled with other Dickinson students almost made me feel back at home again! It was also great having George there with us; it was almost like having a personal tour guide everywhere we went, since he was always able to provide us with pieces of information that we otherwise would not have known.

This excursion had me thinking bigger than just the United States, Germany, or Poland: in today’s global economy, the actions of one state can have drastic effects on another and it is important to be aware of the benefits and consequences of international relations. >Madison<

I became interested in Poland’s history this summer, when I spent the night in Krosno Odrzańskie in July this past summer. My interest was heightened when I was visiting a friend in Switzerland, whose mother comes from Poland. She talked a little about how she met her husband, and how hard it was to live in a communist system. Since then I have wanted to learn a little more about Polish history, but I had not really had the chance, and therefore, I was quite excited for our Dickinson excursion to Poland.

I was really pleased with the program, especially in Krakow. I think the most beneficial part of the excursion was the opportunity to meet and talk with polish students from the Jagiellonian University. I met up with the students multiple times after our dinner with them on the first night in Krakow. Through the students I got to see polish culture from a different perspective, and I learned a little more about what daily life is like in Poland for members of my own generation. I think what really struck me, was that the dreams and aspirations of the Polish students are very similar to those of American and German students, despite the differences in economy and historical background.

I also really enjoyed the Underground Museum in Krakow. The museum is very well done, and I think it really took the ideas we had been learning about in our lectures and made them come to life. It is rare to find a well done interactive museum that is not explicitly made for children. The POLIN Museum in Warsaw as well done too. I gained a lot of knowledge from our tour and think it would be worth visiting again to go through slower on my own, if I am ever back in Warsaw.  In the end the excursion to Poland really was a valuable experience. I learned so much about the history, economics and culture that I have a much better appreciation for Poland. I think just being able to spend time in Krakow alone made the trip worth it. It is a beautiful city. >Adrienne<

One of my favorite things about Poland was meeting the American Studies students in Krakow and spending time with them. As someone who is interested in languages (I had tried to decipher the Sky Mall magazines on the plane which were in both English and Polish) I wanted to have a chance to learn new Polish phrases and pronunciations from native speakers. For example, there is a Polish letter that looks like an “l” with a line through it! (It’s pronounced like an English “w”). The American Studies students from the University of Krakow also knew which food and restaurants were the best! We had a great time discussing US trivia and history and learning more about Poland while eating Perogies. It was an excellent example of students engaging in a cultural exchange and learning more about each other’s countries.

I thought the Poland program was interesting, because as a German major, understanding the history and culture of the countries which border on Germany is just as important as understanding the history and culture of Germany itself. Therefore, I enjoyed many of the lectures about Polish history, economics, and politics. My favorite speaker was the “Alphabet of Poland” professor. He decided to go through Polish history using an A… B… C… etc. approach rather than the traditional approach of chronological order. I also enjoyed how the Poland trip allowed the Dickinson students abroad in Germany to connect with the other Dickinson students in Italy. It was also interesting for me to compare the experiences of being abroad in Germany vs. in Italy. I would suggest more trips which allow different Dickinson abroad groups to connect— I was also able to spend time with students that I did not yet know very well at Dickinson College. >Ezra<

My favorite part of the Poland Excursion was the choir concert we attended of the high schoolers from Krakow and Germantown, PA. They were both very talented groups and the music program was great, but I especially loved at the end how both the groups and their history were explained by the school directors. It was nice to see other students of an even younger age getting to experience the culture and friendship of people from another country, especially Poland. I am also grateful to have learned so much about a country that I originally didn’t have too much knowledge on. It was a nice contrast learning intellectually about Poland in the lectures while also getting to see the two major cities of Krakow and Warsaw, whether it be by walking around, museums, or bus tours. Overall it opened my eyes to yet another country of Europe, and it turned out to be one of my favorites.  I can’t wait to go back. >Cassie<

Our excursion to Poland consisted of many lectures, tours of Krakow and Warsaw, and many delicious meals. The two lectures I found most interesting were entitled; “From Communist to Solidarity and Further” and “Church and the State in Poland.” Poland has a rich history and relationship with the USA, Germany, and Russia and this lecture explored this history as well as Poland’s current role in international affairs. I also found it interesting to compare everyday life in communist Poland with that in the DDR. In the second lecture I learned that 80-90% of Poles, depending on the poll, identify themselves as Christian and how this is reflected in Government policy.

Personally, I found the visitation of Auschwitz I and Auschwitz II-Birkenau to be the most compelling and I find myself very fortunate to learn about this piece of world history. >George<

On our excision to Poland I was very surprised by the city of Krakow. I never would have imagined how beautiful and alive it would be. It was very interesting to witness their easter celebrations and markets, as they were not present in Bremen. The culture was very warm with people performing every day in the market square, whether it was break dancers, musicians, or people blowing huge bubbles entertaining swarms of children. The lectures at the beginning of the excursion helped with all the future museum visits and documentaries. I was embarrassed by how little Polish history I knew before this excursion, but I feel like I came out of it with a basic understanding. I never knew how deep Poland’s connections with America were. I really enjoyed how it seemed like at every new exhibit or lecture there was not only Polish and American but also German and Italian history involved. I was very impacted by the visit to Auschwitz and Birkenau, especially as a German Studies major, World War II is almost always a part of our curriculum, but it’s a much more emotional and real experience that’s hard to achieve without physically being there. >Katie<

I was most entranced by any of the events that taught our group the long and complex history of Krakow, the two most interesting being the city tour and the visit to the Rynek Underground museum of Krakow. For me, going out into the city and being able to gaze at the buildings while hearing their history, or see an elaborate exhibit that transports a person back in time with the sights and sounds of medieval times, allowed me to experience history in an almost tangible way. On the city tour, we not only heard about dates and historical figures, but above all stories, the words that I live for and drive the heartbeat of the city. It is one thing to see the magnificent St. Mary’s Basilica on the town square and discuss the complex history of the church’s role in Polish history, which we did frequently during our trip. However, to hear the tragic story of the brothers who supposedly built the church allowed me a glimpse into the beautiful narrative of the city. Among the many treasures of the Rynek Underground, four meters underground and at the same level as the original town market place, was the initiative of the museum to preserve these stories for the next generation. In this extremely interactive museum there are undisturbed sections of rock left purposefully to be excavated by the next generation of archeologists. So while the entire trip was fascinating and exciting for me, exposing me to new sights, tastes, languages and people, it was these stories that are collected and preserved by the citizens of Krakow that I felt most honored to be a part of. The Poland excursion was a whirlwind of new places and information, that above all exposed me to a section of history and the part of the world I would have not gotten the chance to see. >Rachel<

In the second part of our Vienna Blog, read about the Wiener Schatzkammer, the Marionette Theater and a performance of Mozart’s Magic Flute, the Sisi Museum, and the Albertina.

Wiener Schatzkammer
by Ezra Sassaman

One part of Vienna which I enjoyed immensely was the treasure chamber, or Schatzkammer. This is one area in which the United States does not offer much: back at home for me, it would be impossible to find this amount of royal adornments or anything at all from this far into history. The treasures in the rooms were like something I had only ever seen in books or movies and I couldn’t believe they were real at first—I felt like I was in the storage room of a theater.
Included in the cache were huge portraits of former Austrian royalty, the Habsburgers, resplendent garments, bejeweled crowns and swords, and even some things I had never imagined, like a much too intricate cradle for a baby Habsburger and an amazing pitcher for the official baptism of royalty. Among the portraits was a painting of Maria Louise, one of Napoleon’s wives. Of course, we hear about Napoleon, but I have the feeling I did not fully grasp that he was a real person—it had always seemed like a story from the past that we did not have much connection to in the present. In the Schatzkammer, however, seeing these portraits and treasures which belonged to these people from so long ago was simply different than seeing pictures or reading about historical events—these figures of history began to come to life for me.

Kaiser Ezra I.

Toward the end of the tour, I needed to ask a question. We often see criminal masterminds trying to break into exhibits like the Schatzkammer in shows like “Sherlock” or movies like “National Treasure.” I asked the tour guide what kind of security measures the Schatzkammer used, and if there had been any attempts to steal the priceless treasures. “Well, of course I can’t tell you exactly what kind of security we use” laughed the tour guide—“are you trying to steal something?” She said that there had been no break-in attempts at the Schatzkammer, but a painting had been stolen from a neighboring museum during construction. The thief had tried to blackmail the museum, but they caught him.

Magic Flute Marionette Theater at Schönbrunn Palace
by Santiago Princ

During our excursion to Vienna we were taken to multiple theater plays and different kind of performances, one of them being a rare Marionette depiction of “The Magic Flute” (“Die Zauberflöte” in German); a two-act opera by Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart. What I found most remarkable about the experience was the amazingly honed skill that the puppeteers had to control the marionettes. This play normally performed by human beings lacked no fluidity or expression while being performed by the stringed dolls. The movements of the dolls were perfectly synchronized with their dialogs, every scene flowed smoothly and the fact that these were puppets being controlled instead of humans made “special effects” such as Papageno quasi-flying great addition to the play’s fantasy. We were also given some insights on the art of puppeteering. According to the professionals in the theater every single action of the puppet such as walking, waving or striking a pose can take years to master, and becoming proficient at puppeteering can be as demanding as becoming a professional instrument player. During the intermission we could also see how the design and making process of the marionettes develops and after the play we were invited by the puppeteers to see how they operate from behind the scenes. I found this to be a very peculiar and hilarious experience!

Photo from https://www.marionettentheater.at/aktuelles.html

Sisi Museum
by Cassandra Blyler

A few of us chose to visit the Sisi Museum, which is located in part of the Hofburg Palace. The museum was organized into two sections; the first being a collection of silverware, plates, and other household items made specifically for the Habsburgs. I found this part of the museum to be impressive due to the sheer quantity of various items; for example a collection of 200 golden plates only occupied a tiny section. The second half of the museum was dedicated to the life of Empress Elizabeth (Sisi) who was married to Franz Joseph I. This part of the museum was very interesting because it provided us with so much information about Sisi’s personal life. It included excerpts of poems she had written, along with dresses and other articles of clothing she had worn in private. I was amazed by the circumference of her waist and the corsets used to further exaggerate its smallness. It was also noteworthy to see the highly popularized paintings of Sisi in their original form. It was interesting to hear about the daily-life struggles of someone in the royal family; those makes her more relatable, especially with her depression following the suicide of her son.

Albertina
by George DeRosa

“For about six hours, entranced, S. A. Powers had watched thousands of Picasso paintings replace one another at flashcut speed, and then he had been treated to Paul Klees, more than the painter had painted during his entire lifetime. S. A. Powers, now viewing Modigliani paintings replace themselves at furious velocity, had conjectured (one needs a theory for everything) that the Rosicrucians were telepathically beaming pictures at him, probably boosted by microrelay systems of an advanced order; but then, when Kandinsky paintings began to harass him, he recalled that the main art museum at Leningrad specialized in just such nonobjective moderns, and decided that the Soviets were attempting telepathically to contact him.”

After four days of travelling around Vienna, coffee was no longer a tasty pick-me-up but rather a necessity. After touring the Belvedere Palace and Museum, the rest of the afternoon was free and I eagerly retraced my steps through the city towards my bed. Along the way, I was remarking to myself how odd it is seeing buildings and cathedrals from the 12th century directly across the street from ultra-modern boutiques selling handbags and skin creams but sleep was the only relevant thought on my mind. As I pulled the door handle of the hotel expecting entrance into my own personal nirvana I was snapped back into reality when the door wouldn’t budge. I was locked out. Santiago had the keys. Scheiße. With no means of contacting Santiago, I quickly surveyed my options and did the only rational thing left to do: I took the nearest subway in a completely random direction. Upon exiting the subway, I found myself in Schillerplatz and the accompanying park memorializing the life of German poet, philosopher, historian, and playwright Friedrich Schiller. After a tour around the park I found myself outside of the Albertina Museum and decided to view their exhibitions.
That lovely excerpt from Phillip K. Dick’s, A Scanner Darkly, was my first exposure to what would be considered “High Art” and whether it was Synchronicity, the Russians, or the fact that the Albertina Museum is home to over 1,000,000 prints and over 65,000 drawings (one needs a theory for everything), I was pleased to find that one of the first paintings I had chosen to spend time with, upon further inspection, was Amedeo Modigliani’s Young Woman in a Blue Shirt. Seeing Modigliani’s name conjured up memories of that particular passage from Dick’s text and gave me a sense of familiarity and connectedness in a completely foreign city and country. After spending another 10 minutes trying to unlock the secrets hidden behind her solid blue eyes I moved on to the rest of the museum. I was greeted by works of artists with familiar names such as Monet, Picasso, Kandinsky, and works by artists less familiar to me such as Redon, Delvaux, and Giacometti. The Albertina is one of my fondest memories of Vienna not only because of the events leading up to it but also because after leaving I felt ever slightly more cultured.